NOT LEVER AND SWITCH

The development of the garden or suburban area, many owners have to start with providing it with water. Since this problem started and I. The water in the area lies relatively close to the surface – at a depth of about 4.5 m. it would be Possible to dig a dug well. But water consumption was expected irregular and uneven and stagnant water – not the best, not only for drinking or cooking, but also for irrigation.

To get to the water, it had to be a pretty solid layer of dry loam. And although the well did driven (Abyssinian), still pre-drilled hole under it and the filter is not scored and dropped it as casing.

The pump is mounted the usual piston type in the form of a column with a manual lever actuator.

Initially, the required volume of water they had to pump it is easy (or so I thought, since he produced the life-giving water is most often the wife). But as development of the site increased and the required amount of water. Increasingly, his wife began to call for help and me. Then I decided that the operation be mechanized.

The design of the mechanism has determined the available-suitable worm gear pair with a single-thread worm. Based on it I made a compact reducer with a gear ratio i = 44.

However, it should be noted that this work requires special equipment and skilled execution.

Pump unit with electric drive and gearbox:

1 — pump; 2 — rack-guide rails (steel, sheet s2); 3 — piston rod (brass rod d16); 4 — rollers; 5 —thrust (steel, pipe 12×2, 2); 6 — reducer; 7 — leash-crank (D16, the sheet s12,2); 8 — coupling (aluminum, rubber); 9 — electric motor (N = 600 W, 1380 rpm); 10 — contactor switch; 11 — console area (St3, sheet s4); 12 — brace (St3, rod d10,2); 13 — stand-stop (aluminum, pipe 22×22)

Therefore it is better to focus on the use of ready-made reducer with the appropriate parameters or to entrust its production to a specialist.

A simple rectangular housing cut from dural bar, drilled holes in it with mutually perpendicular intersecting axes with diameters slightly larger than the worm and wheel.

The ends of the worm shaft is mounted in roller angular contact ball bearing 7203 series, and the wheel shaft — bearings in the series 100096. The bearing housings are also from D16.

Between the bearing housing and the gearbox housing has laid several thin steel shims. Removing a portion of the strips on one side and adding them to another, you can adjust the preload of the roller bearings and the clearance between the thread of the worm and teeth of the wheel.

To convert the rotational motion of the output shaft of the gearbox in the reciprocating rod with the piston produced a crank mechanism consisting of a pair of leashes (the cranks), two rods (connecting rods) and the piston to the rod (slide).

Worm gear nasioi installation:

1 — housing gear (D16); 2 — gear cover housing bearing shaft worm wheel (D16, s4, 2); 3 — shaft worm wheel (45 steel, rod 030); 4 — the adjusting plate (St3, s0,25,8); 5 — bearing housing screw (D16,2); 6 — bearing 7203 (2); 7 — leash-crank; 8 — worm; 9 — axis thrust (45 steel, rod d20); 10 cuff; 11 — worm wheel; 12 — bearing 100096; 13 — M5 screws (16 pieces); 14 — bolt M6 (2 piece); 15 — dowel (steel 45); 16 — oil seal

Rectilinear reciprocating movement of the rod is provided with two U-shaped vertical guides on which runs the pair of rollers of the bearing. Guides are bent from 2 mm steel sheet.

Special maintenance in the process of operation the reducer does not need. The only thing that do for its reliable performance is a little lubricant is poured into the gearbox through the hole for housing the thrust bearing, and then — only at the beginning of the summer season.

Now the problems with providing land with water, as well as excessive physical exertion in this regard, more do not feel, shifting such care to the electric pump.

The drive for it used the three-phase motor at 1380 Rev/min output of 600 W with windings connected triangle. The power of the engine — from household single-phase AC voltage of 220 V via battery starting and operating capacitors (about the selection of tanks, batteries and connecting them in circuit magazine wrote repeatedly).

The motor shaft connected to the worm gear via a rubber coupler with cross-shaped grooves on opposite ends.

Piston pump:

1 — water inlet (pipe 2″); 2 — ball check valve pump; 3 — the pump casing (steel pipe 99×4,5); 4 — the piston (brass); 5 — sealing ring (rubber s5); 6 — spacer check valve piston (brass, sheet s2); 7 — outlet (pipe 1/2″); 8 — top flange (St3, sheet s4); 9 — track (St3, rod d40); 10 — the piston rod; 11 — cuff (rubber); 12 — stroke limiter valve (nut M16); 13 — a nut of fastening of the piston (M16); 14 — the bottom flange (St3, sheet s4); 15 — clutch

The whole drive — the motor and made to it a gear — mounted on the console platform of 5 mm steel sheet. However, due to the considerable weight of the engine had to be brought under him still stand-the emphasis of the dural tube.

The pump itself although homemade, but the design is not very different from the serial. Its body is made of steel pipe with an inner diameter of 90 mm. Bottom and lid, to audit and repair of check valves and piston are made removable. The inner surface of the bottom flange has a slight taper to the Central intake hole for better operation of the ball check valve. The piston is brass with a rubber o-ring. His non-return valve flap usually made of rubber. I have the same it is made of brass in the shape of a washer. The contacting surfaces of the piston and valve lapped. After replacing the hand lever by the actuator stroke was reduced to 90 mm, but the height of the suction chamber of the pump, I left the old.

The pump capacity is less than the flow rate (inflow) of water into the well. If necessary, through a hose, it provides the injection of water into the tank, standing on a small height.

E. Evsikov, Lyubertsy, Moscow region.