MODEL-COPY - SETIn the last decade popular form of modeling the guys is to build plastic models-copies of ready sets. And it is clear. No need to look for scarce materials and components – almost everything you need is in the box. A beginner, even inept Modeler-student can easily pick a few ready-made parts than to cut them from scratch, because so eager to get the toy like a real tank, ship or aircraft, that neither the exact fit of parts, nor to the fine detailing of patience is not enough. It is clear that “copy number” of such models it is possible to speak only conditionally.

But over time, comparing photos, paintings and drawings of their model with the real car, there is a desire for a more accurate copy of the prototype, the superior laid the factory set level. But how to do it?

Publications on the subject a lot. But most of them are designed for experienced and well-equipped “bison” modeling. Moreover, often, publications in them are full of undisguised contempt for those who can’t spend hundreds and even thousands of rubles on high-quality imported models, paints, airbrushes and other accessories. Apparently, the authors are unknown to the material level of the majority of Russians, whose children also want to join the history of technology and have a miniature copy of the most impressed them samples. So what about those who decided to go beyond the mere execution of the user?

And yet, with only cheap domestic packages, materials and common tool, you can get quite a decent copy. For example, consider inexpensive (about 100 rubles) model of the MiG-3 produced by “Zvezda”.


Fig. 1. Model-copy of the Soviet fighter of the great Patriotic war, the MiG-3

Fig. 1. Model-copy of the Soviet fighter of the great Patriotic war, the MiG-3:

1 – spinner; 2 – propeller; 3 – exhaust pipes of the engine; 4 – antenna; 5 – the cockpit canopy; 6 radio; 7 – antenna; 8 – fold rear landing gear (2 pieces); 9 – front suspension; 10 — wing; 11 – the left Aileron; 12 — trimmer left Aileron (only on the left Aileron); 13 – stabilizer; 14 – steering wheel height; 15 — trimmer of the Elevator (only right side); 16 – fuselage; 17 – machine gun

Immediately give two rules that must be followed when working on any models.

1: surrounded by all the drawings and photos of the prototype you can find. This will allow to update the model with some small details omitted by the manufacturer, and to allow a lot of questions like: “which way to glue this detail?” Much in the Internet, if you ask for the name of the aircraft in the section “pictures”. Those who have no computer or Internet access, you can go to the Internet centre, the post office or library. A couple of photos to clarify the unclear points in the design, printing, cost twenty rubles.

If you are fond of the technique of the Second world war, you will help the computer game “Il-2. Forgotten battles”, with additions (in some clubs). It allows you to see almost all the planes (and only planes) of the time, and many of them, from the inside cabins.

2nd: do not glue the parts, not having tried them dry, no matter how simple it may seem, the upcoming operation. Otherwise you may not be able even ordinary gluing the wing halves because of the dross-Burr generated in the pressing of parts (Fig. 2A).

Now let’s get down to business. Erode a file the pilot’s seat, as shown in figure 2B. Round the corners of the seat pan. Erode is also the top corners of the dashboard, otherwise it won’t work half of the fuselage. They, incidentally, also better refined. In the sock of the center section of the wing intakes are indicated by the parts 5 and 8 (Fig. 4) small oval indentations. Drill them on the edges of the hole with a diameter of about 0.8 mm and cut the jumper. Drill nothing to something, just make a thicker shank, and opav wrapped it with copper wire. If the drill is not blunted, by rotating it between your fingers, you do it fast enough, and most importantly – accurately.

In the instructions for details cab interior color specified in the color black. But rather this: black only the upper part of the control stick and headrest of the chair. The dashboard and the lower part of the handle – gray or light gray. Devices you can print, for example a thin shank drill, lightly dipped in black paint. Floors, inner walls of cab, dark grey. Pedal and, as an option, a Cup seat, painted with silver paint.

By the way, about the colors. Cheapest – domestic firms. Their three types: nitro, acrylic and super.

The nitro is best to dilute the pure acetone. If the paint is stratified – rabbanite contents until smooth. But otherwise – without features. But in recent years, buy it there (it may already be discontinued?).

Acrylic paint is diluted with water, has no smell (important quality). It gives a matte surface. Interlock with plastic immediately, the fresh layer has a low strength. Touch the nail – have a scratch. But after a day or two the paint hardens well and can even gently polishing cloth without toothpaste. Perfect for drawing frames of the lanterns. For this to work make of the two matches tool – thin brush and knife. They can remove accidental drips of paint that have not dried up yet. With dried acrylic paint adheres firmly.

By the way, if dilute “svetlovskoe” acrylic paint is not water, and a thinner X-20A of the firm “TAMOA”, it gives a better surface, better and faster adhesion to the plastic. However, the interval between coats of paint should be increased to no less than two hours.

Paint it while it’s fresh and dilute brand thinner until not too thick consistency, gives a nice smooth glossy surface. But it’s worth it to flake or dry to form a film on the surface or the lumps, it will not save even brand thinner. So if the next model you will be doing in six months or a year, then the entire set of inks will probably have to buy a new one. Yeah and it dries it for a long time. Avoid leaving fingerprints on the model!

For business use mastered the technology of producing plastic filaments and rods. Cut a straight piece of sprue, grasp the ends and rotating, heat over a candle flame. When the plastic softens, the output gate of the hot air stream and drag it to the desired diameter. We need a thread of 0.5 mm to simulate a frame and thin, with a diameter not exceeding 0.1 mm – for antenna.


Fig. 2. Revision of some parts in the kit for easy and correct connections in the Assembly

Fig. 2. Revision of some parts in the kit for easy and correct connections when assembling:

a – the upper surface of the wing; b – the pilot seat; fold the rear landing gear; g – exhaust pipes of the engine

Fig. 3. Installation of equipment cabins

Fig. 3. Installation of equipment cabin:

1 – the dashboard controls; 2 – left instrument panel; 3 – right instrument panel; 4 – the frame of the cab (both sides); 5 – fuselage


Model MiG-3, material: plastic, green color. We also mentioned for parts more suited to grey, so look for the sprues from any of the other models. Pre-made cores and threads hang vertically so they stay straight.

Now stick to the inner walls of the cabin segments of the rods, simulating the frame, as shown in Fig. 3. Of thin plastic (plate numbers) take the side of the dashboard. Their color is similar to the main dashboard. Please note, parts of the left and right sides is unequal. Check that the dashboard is not leaned on these items. If all goes well, we will fix those drops of glue on the bottom, so then they are not dangling in the sealed cabin.

Of thin acrylic plastic (from packaging audio cassettes) saw a sight (det. 1, Fig. 3). Give your fingers a tiny bit, first saw out the top, and then cut the part from billet. Color – black, rear end in skin color, and the upper inclined transparent glass Express.

Assemble the propeller, previously having painted its details. And then check whether the joined halves of the fuselage when nested in between the screw and the interior of the cab. If the sight does not pass between the instrument panel and the fuselage, erode the inside of the rim of the cockpit. Also check, does the sight take the place of the lamp. If so, give sight back what retaining pin needs to be long enough.

Again making sure that everything is in order, assemble the fuselage, except for the flashlight (because any drop of glue or paint, awkward movement of the needle file may spoil). Ruined the plastic piece is still possible to seal or even to carve anew, but the glass – is unlikely. In addition, further works on the inner surface of the lamp can adhere to the sawdust and particles.

Strip the bottom seam between the two halves of the fuselage. Color black item 21 and refit the parts vodoradiatora 21 and 22 (Fig. 4). Assembly of the wings and stabilizers – regular.

Now the tunnels of the cooler (items 19 and 20). The manuals are called to Express their input and output holes with black paint. But it is better to drill inclined holes there. Cut the rear flat part of these items, they can not use. The front hole saw round needle files, and back – rectangular. In addition, the front beveled portion of the parts give the roundness and out. The shape of these parts is clearly visible in the picture on the box cover. Erode the seat surface of said parts to conform to the rounded side of the fuselage, and glue them.

Further zashpaklyuyte all the cracks and inconsistencies of conventional epoxy. The resin here is acting very “smart” – she is drawn into slits, she forms a smooth fairing between the parts, does not shrink. At the same time, the cured resin is not too firmly bonded to the plastic. So if you drip too much, then when further processed it can easily fly off. Abundantly fill the gap at the rear end of the part 22 epoxy resin.

Now start to iron all the joints and seams, making the product in a slicked graceful microplane. Sharpen the trailing edge of the wing and stabilizer so that they coincided with their root parts to the fuselage. A little advice: after a first rough fit with a needle file, apply on the treated joints in layer “silverfish”. You will be surprised how clearly visible it will become all the inconsistencies and omissions of the form! At the same time paint the inside in silver color all openings of the air intakes.

The sublayer “silverfish” can have another meaning. If the coating is erased or peeling (and, most likely, it will happen, just like on a real plane), on the protruding parts, sharp corners, trim the seams – it will see the metal color, which is very realistic.

Give the rear end of the radiator (detail 22) rounded, smoothly mated with the fuselage shape. Grind protruding beyond the rear edge of the right wing trimmer Aileron on this plane it was only on the left.

In the process of Stripping adhesive joints and sharpening the back edge you can suffer the sheathing joints, cracks between the planes and rudders, ailerons, trim tabs. Carefully restore their self-made cutter, carved out of a chip of the saw blade. Drill a hole of the air intake at the bottom of the forward fuselage. Finally, smoothen the joints with fine sandpaper and Zapolarye cloth with GOI paste or the like.

Chassis will require the following modifications. Shields (parts 26, 28 in Fig. 4) have ledges. On the reverse side along the ledge should be turned down with needle files, a recess (see Fig. 2B). And yet – saw out of the thinnest of the workpiece fold tail gear.

Behind the back seat install rectangular box of radio equipment. Don’t forget to check, does it take the place of the lamp.


Fig. 4. Details of the model set

Fig. 4. Details of the model set:

1 – the floor of the cockpit; 2 – dashboard; 3 – handle control of the aircraft; 4 – seat; 5 – right half of the fuselage model; 6 – shaft; 7 – valve stem canopy; 8 – the left half of the fuselage model; 9,10 – lower and upper half of the right wing; 11,12 – upper and lower half of the left wing; 13 – the left part of the horizontal stabilizer; 14 – right part of the horizontal tail; 15 – propeller; 16 – spinner; 17-the canopy pilot; 18-exhaust pipes of the engine; 19-left inlet; 20 – right inlet; 21 – lattice vodoradiatora; 22 fairing vodoradiatora; 23 – the tail landing gear; 24 – strut main landing gear; 25 – wheel main landing gear; 26 – bottom right panel of the chassis; 27 – top-right shield chassis; 28 – lower left panel of the chassis; 29 — upper left plate of the chassis; 30 — the flaps that cover the dome wheels; 31 – Shoe sock of the wing; 32 – Pitot; 33 – antenna

Details 18 – exhaust pipes. Note that you can paint in color of rusty, sooty metal should be only the last three tabs. They also are back to pre-drill holes with a diameter of approximately 0.7 mm. sharpened match paint the hole black. At the same time color is black and the exposed portion of the barrels of three guns – they are top of the forward fuselage. The front edge of parts 18 (is trim, part of the hood), should smoothly connect with the fuselage (you might have to putty, but only this place), and painted in the same color. In fact, this factory item is made poorly. Better to make it independently from the preform a thickness of approximately 1.3 mm. To the left and right parts are symmetrical, craft them together, and then sawn in two. If you decide to use a regular item, then undercut it from the sides to the thickness of the pipes themselves. In any case, to drive each other flat base part and the curved side of the fuselage should be a groove slit on the fuselage. To glue these parts and all the “glass” follows after applying the first paint layer of the model. Before gluing the lantern don’t forget to purge the cabin of rubbish and sawdust.

Cover the recess in the wing under the landing spotlight with silver paint. The remaining Assembly operations -without features.

Note for those who choose winter color. White camouflage was applied on top of the summer – easily washable paint. According to the testimony of the test pilot P. M. Stefanovsky, representatives from the industry even had to row due to the fact that in some parts it was done with lime. Its rough surface reduces the speed of the aircraft. So if the white color you get is not very good, and it will show green, it is historically accurate. You don’t even have to buy a special model paint, and work accordingly divorced domestic pasta “bar correction”.

Put it on the model of the antenna. First, glue one end of the wire, and the next day or two. So you will be able to properly tighten. Paint with silver paint.

And the final touch. A characteristic feature of aircraft with piston motors are traces of soot on the fuselage over the exhaust pipes. Fit the cold metal object, the soot from the candles. Fine, short-cropped brush to apply it on the fuselage, moving the brush from the nose to the tail. Blow away the remnants. If put clearly unnecessary, it can be erased with an eraser.

I hope these tips will help novice modelers, the availability of drawings and other supplementary materials, to enhance other kits.

A. LISOV, Ivanovo

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