I homebrew with years of experience, have built and snowmobiles, and ATVs. But my biggest passion is boats. Despite today’s gloomy everyday worries, I still find time to do what you love.
As you know, produced by the domestic industry before outboard engines (PLM) was far from perfect. Often craftsmen themselves had to bring them to mind: to reduce weight, increase power, make more economical, reliable and even aesthetically pleasing.
In the early 70-ies I bought “Moscow 30”, but soon the model was removed from production due to a number of structural flaws.
The engine motor was at that time a good: quite powerful, torquey, but weak host was the gearbox — gear and bearings could not withstand the loads and fail. In 1978, tired of searching for spare parts and repairs, I have attached to it a gear from the “Vortex”, and with it the motor somehow has served me for almost twenty years. But the time has come again to change this node. This time the choice fell on the gear from the “Hi-22” — more streamlined and with good hydrodynamic characteristics.
Reconstruction I made at home using common tools.
I think that my experience and used constructive solutions will be useful to those readers of the journal “modelist-Konstruktor” to whom can get this problem.
From end-of-life motor “hi-22,” I took deadwood and from him the hacksaw cut off the lower part with a height of 115 mm. This size is suitable for “outboards” my makeshift boats to provide the necessary depth of immersion of the screw, so I want to warn those who have boats prefabrication: for them, this size shall be 75 mm. the height of the parts passing through deadwood, must also be reduced accordingly.
The severed portion will serve as a deadwood and an adapter between a lower part of the shaft tube of the “Moscow” and gear “Hello.”
Further, from a sheet of soft “stainless steel” thickness 1.8 mm cut two albums in the shape of a rectangular trapezoid with a height of 43 mm with the bases 205 and 190 mm. of the Plate is arched in the shape of the contours of the upper clipped part of the deadwood, bonded parts with clamps and light tack welding directly on the deadwood, as on a mandrel, connected the ends of the plates, having made thus a kind of clamp. Then simultaneously in the plates of the clamp and the walls of the deadwood drilled rivet holes in the places where the rivet heads will not interfere with the movement of the shifting rod reverse and will not damage the pipe conduit. The two front holes for rivets with a diameter of 5 mm, the rest — with a diameter of 8 mm. carefully (so as not to damage the aluminium deadwood), but is securely riveted to the parts of the unit.
Half of the sweep plates of the clamp
Deadwood and stern tube motor “hi-22”
1 —holes for fasteners (screws, studs); 2 -chop location, reverse thrust with the tip; 3 — aperture for thrust reverse and shaft; 4 — the area of the shafting; 5 — hole for water piping tube; 6 — aperture for the exhaust
Modified deadwood “Hello-22”:
1 – part of deadwood; 2 — clamp; 3 — adapter flange; m 4 — rivet (aluminum d5. 2); 5 — rivets (aluminum d8 3 units); 6 — flap; 7 — exhaust ports (8…d3, both sides); 8 — main exhaust hole 20 mm height; 9 — plug the old exhaust hole (stainless steel, sheet s1); 10 — rivet (aluminum d5, 6 PCs); 11 — plate anti-cavitation agent
Revision of details of the motor, passing through deadwood: water piping tube (a), thrust reverse (b); shaft (); clutch shaft (g); the mandrel for the expansion of the clutch shaft (l)
Revision of stern tube motor “Moscow-30” (shown by shading — remove)
Motor reducer “hi-22” in the collection with modified deadwood:
1 — gearbox housing; 2 — stud with nut; 3 —thrust reverse; 4 — improved deadwood; 5 — the screw shaft
Outboard motor “Moscow 30” reducera from “Hi-22”:
1,2 — reducer and deadwood (from “Hi-22”); 3,4 — engine and stern tube (from “Moscow-30”); 5 — screws; 6 — propeller (2-blade with a pitch of 360 mm, homemade)
The next step was the production of transition flanges of sheet “steel” with a thickness of 5 mm. thick First on a blank sheet of paper did print directly from the lower mating plane of a stern tube “of Moscow-30”. Then this impression took a print from the top of the deadwood “Hello”. Carefully cut with scissors along the outline on the sheet, all the internal holes and the openings, then carefully carved out the outer contour. In this paper the pattern of “stainless steel” manufactured flange. The finished flange is symmetrical about its edge set “overkill” (upside down) deadwood and welded the ends of the yoke to the plane of the flange perimeter, with the exception of places under the nuts, thus getting ready the docking station.
Next, the bottom plane plate anti-cavitation agent cut the visor of the exhaust hole (this small brake), and the hole closed by a plate of “stainless steel” mm thickness and riveted. The plate edge are smoothed with emery cloth.
Top plate cut off the “heel” of the body of the deadwood — it nipped back, having done thus, another exhaust hole with a height of 20 mm. At the sides of it in opposite walls of the deadwood drilled another six radial holes with diameters of 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 mm. Exhaust gases escaping through the hole will blow away the water, thereby reducing the resistance of the underwater part of the motor.
Then moved on to finalizing the details of passing through deadwood. Long vodovodna up arched “heel” on the two mating radii: 490 and 190 mm, the Lower end sharpened to a cone, just above the soldered on 2 mm brass copper washer outer diameter of 20 mm, and under the washer installed with the same diameter rubber 2-mm shim thickness of 5 mm. the Top of the intake tube in the deadwood up the back under the cone of the conduit.
Thrust reverser with a tip picked up from “Moscow”, curved her, and a conduit for mating, but smaller radii and increased welding 6 mm uncoated electrode to a length of 270 mm. At the end of the rod electrode tapped MB.
A vertical shaft (shaft) motor with a diameter of 15.5 mm is made of steel 4X13. One end with the slots is left unchanged and the other with a square size of 10×10 mm was cut off, leaving a shaft length equal to 548 mm At this edge with a file again to make a square section with a side of 12 mm. it was Not possible to produce surface hardening on the end, but I have had experience operating “raw” shaft with square section 10×10 mm. This shaft has served me for many years and it cranked only when at high revs the engine suddenly jammed the gearbox. To connect shaft of reducer with the reworked end of a shaft I had to customize and standard coupler. One half of it heated in the forge and expanded on a previously manufactured mandrel cross-section 12×12 mm.
Had to modify the stern tube and pipe motor “Moscow”, more precisely, its lower inner part. First, to a depth of about 35 mm were cut rush ahead, as it will interfere with the end of a long stud with a nut at connection nodes. Second, the removed part of the cast of the bridges between the opposite walls, which is not allowed to dock pipe conduit. Pipe design has not been weakened, because it is still quite other tides and thickening providing stiffness and strength.
Screw my engine combined “Hello” — “Moscow” two-bladed, self-made.
And the last one. Serial outboard motor “Moscow-30” distance between the reference plane of the wall brackets and anti-cavitation agent stove is 436 mm. my this size has to be equal to 440 mm. From the position came out just put it under the brackets on the edge of the transom the plywood strip.
Vladimir PRONIN, the city of Krasnoslobodsk, Mordovia
Noticed mistape? Highlight it and press
, to inform us. Ctrl+Enter Recommend to read GEAR FOR SNOWMOBILE Designers snowmobiles know that linking directly to the crankshaft of the engine and the propeller is unprofitable: too high engine speed do not allow to use aredigital optimally. To... SIMPLE, AS A SLEDGE My snowmobile which I called "Ayavrik", simple in construction, as intended to overcome huge snowdrifts. I was built for moving from hole to hole for ice fishing on a snow-covered ice,...