PAIRS TO ORDER! | MODEL CONSTRUCTION

No wonder they say that “the bath soars, bath cooks, bath’ll fix it!”. Unfortunately, I for many, the meaning of this folk wisdom comes too late, when the disease begins to approach the critical point. But, it would be easier, as taught by the elderly: a hot bath, a birch broom — and no sickness will not take! Preventive properties of bath known for a long time, so those who cares about their health, always “friends” with her. Not uncommon today own baths and saunas in the cottages, garden plots country partnerships. Build saunas in enterprises, sports complexes, adding to their Lounges, pools, rooms, simulators and other attributes of health promotion.

The construction of the premises of the baths saunas do not cause special difficulties for the people who are able to keep the runes in the axe and Linden, especially the readers of “M-K”. You can use the “old” methods, traditional centuries-old proven methods, or more modern techniques (see, for example, “M-K” No. 10 of 1991). However, each Builder before, “and later you will be faced with a major question — the design of the furnace, as it is absolutely clear: there is no good oven, there will be parkay baths. In this situation, I’ve thought a lot about this question, many leafed through the literature, many have seen in nature, a lot of experienced taking heat these baths. Oddly enough, but most of the designs I did not like because of l .the couples in them “raw”. But the most important thing in the sauna or the bath temperature and the “dry” steam.

What do the furnace in the bath on their own Hacienda? First, consider that the use of electric heating is not economically profitable. Second, the construction of ovens with side tanks for water do not allow to couple with the desired “dryness”, as the water boils much sooner than warming the volume of steam is formed the same “raw” steam.

Sauna stove:

1 — furnace, 2 — flame arresters 3 — water tank 4 — heat exchanger.

Hinged hot water tank (105 liter):

1 — the wall (steel, 0,8x500x600 mm, 2 PCs.), 2 — Lis side (steel. 0,8x350x500 mm, 2 ø g), 3 — nozzle (3/4″, length 40 mm, 3 PCs.), 4 — sheet top (steel, 0,8x350x600 mm), 5 — lid (steel, 0,8x200x350 mm), 6 — loop (steel, 0,8x30x60 mm, 2 pieces), 7 – double joint (2 PCs.), 8 — sheet bottom (steel, 0,8x350x600 mm).

Flash suppressor:

1 — side panel (steel, 2x146x246 mm, 2 PCs.), 2 — rear wall (steel, 2x150x150 mm), 3 — strap (steel, 2x10x120 mm, 4 PCs.), 4 — valve (steel, 2x145x300 mm), 5 — tube (100×2,5 mm, length 30 mm) 6 — pipe (105×2,5 mm, length 30 mm), 7 — the front wall (steel, 2x74x150 mm, 2 PCs.) 8 — sheet with holes 095 mm (steel 2x146x246 mm, 2 PCs.).

Heat exchanger:

1 — coarse ( 50×2,5 mm, length 250 mm) 2 — pipe ( 50×2,5 mm, length 447,5 mm, 2 pieces), 3 — nozzle (3/4^’ length 50 mm, 2 PCs.), 4 — washer ( 50×2,5 mm, 2 pieces).

Insert:

1 — sheet with a hole for the pipe (steel 4x342x592 mm) 2 — pipe (steel 100×2 mm, length 300 mm), 3 — heat exchanger 4 — leaf rear with holes for fitting the heat exchanger (steel, 4x350x600 mm) 5 — side sheet (steel, 4x592x592 mm, 2 PCs.), 6 — sheet bottom (steel, 4x342x592 mm), 7 — pole (pipe 20×2, length 147 mm, 2 pieces), 8 — foot (0 30×3 mm, 4 PCs.) 9 — pole (pipe 20×2 mm, length 47 mm, 2 pieces), 10 — side panel blower (steel, 4x100x400 mm, 2 pieces), 11—the rear wall of the blower (steel 4x100x342 mm), 12 — beneath the shelter of the wall (steel, 4x342x392 mm) 13 — wall of the screen (steel 4x200x450 mm, 2 pieces), 14-the bottom of the screen visor (steel, 4x200x342 mm, 2 pieces), 15 — side front wall (steel, 4x50x400 mm, 2 PCs.) 16 — the door of the furnace (steel, 4x270x270 mm) 17 — latch (2 PCs), 18 — clip (2 PCs), 19 — blower door (steel, 4x100x270 mm) 20 —the lower part of the front wall (steel, 4x20x250 mm), 21 — bushing the hinges, 22 — the middle part of the front wall (steel, 4x50x250 mm) 23 — bushing the hinges, 24 — upper part of the front wall (steel, 4x350x300 mm).

After analyzing all this, pondered the possibilities, I did so. Did the usual stove-“stove” with a heat exchanger inside the furnace for water heating and an open pocket above the furnace for the stones. Location “heater” is dictated by safety — “nadawa” a couple, you can get severe burns if you make a steam outlet in the side; in my variant it goes up.

Furnace itself is made of ordinary sheet steel thickness 4…5 mm. Use the “stainless steel” for such purposes is not recommended due to its low heat transfer. But for the tank with hot water and the heat exchanger is the most suitable material.

The tank is made separately from the furnace, so it can be placed in any room: in the dressing room, in the bathroom or even the outside of the bath depends on the area and provided with a supply of running water. The tank is mounted on the wall, the lower level should be above the furnace heat exchanger at least 500 mm. Fitting of the tank and the heat exchanger are connected a rubber hose with mounting clamps. It should be ensured that the hose does not SAG and evenly raised from the furnace to the tank. In principle, the hose can be replaced and the pipes, this will be determined by your capabilities.

The overall design of the furnace and its individual parts shown in the drawings. I just want to note that in order to avoid tearing of tank and knee length of the heat exchanger in the winter, water from them should be drained (removing one of the ends of the hose). If the water system is assembled from pipes, there should be a tee in it with a plug or a special crane.

Recommend to read

BROOM-“PULVERIZATOR”
For uniform spraying paint when decorating large or small surfaces, to create artificial "rain" indoor plants or spraying vegetable crops and shrubs with chemicals that help to combat...
EKSPRESS-OPTIKA
"Bespectacled" they know that most victims are not glass and frame: breaks down on the bridge of his nose, bursts into tight spots. If no spare points, you can use a simple Express...