THE HUNT FOR HEAT

HUNT FOR WARMTHDrafts — no. In the preparation of housing for the winter the first step in city apartments is the sealing of Windows and doors. The simplest solution for Windows is pozatykat cracks and seal them with paper tape. Of course, this measure makes it impossible to open the window for the entire winter, but reduces heat loss.

Ventilation can also produce through the balcony door or specially left unburied part of the window (in the case of tricuspid of its design), as well as the window.

To reduce heat loss in these areas, you need to carefully seal the balcony door not sealed part of the window. This is achieved by a strip — glued to the contours of cotton or foam cord that you can buy in the store.

For the same purpose at the front door of the apartment in the lower part of the frame additionally install a wooden threshold, too, with seal. Leakage between the cover door and the wall are filled with oakum, or in some cases outside of the door along its outline set an additional frame that overlaps all the cracks, or put a second door.

If the apartment is on the ground floor, will effectively cover the entire surface of the floor with linoleum on the insulated “lining”, providing insulation from the cold basement.

Another measure is the gluing of sheets of aluminum or foil on the wall behind the battery, so that the heat emitted by the battery, does not absorbed the cold wall.

Fig. 1. Insulating insert glass

Fig. 1. Insulating insert of glass on double putty (And the imposition of a “bed” layer of putty at the top ribbon and the bottom roller; B — pressing to the seam of stacked glass; glass floor double with putty):

1,5 – bottom layers of putty; 2 – glass; 3 — the top layer of putty; 4 — stud

 

Fig. 2. Window seal foam tape

Fig. 2. Window seal foam tape (a — frame, B — wing):

 

1 — frame ; 2 — leaf; 3 — crystal; 4 strip insulation; 5 — putty

 

Fig. 3. Protection of door from drafts

Fig. 3. Protection of door from drafts (A — nut B—seal):

1 — floor; 2 — door; 3 — metal corner; 4 — rubber strip

 

Fig. 4. Insulation exterior wall sheathing boards

Fig. 4. Insulation exterior wall sheathing boards:

1 — wall; 2 roofing; 3 — rack crates; 4 – horizontal sheathing boards

 

Fig. 5. Veneer walls with added insulation

Fig. 5. Veneer walls with added insulation:

1 — external wall; 2 —sheets of foam; 3 — rack crates; 4 — sheathing boards

 

Fig. 6. Insulated cladding stone wall

Fig. 6. Insulated cladding stone wall:

1 — the slats of the crates; 2 — a layer of insulation (glass wool); 3 — vertical cladding boards

 

Fig. 7. The thermal insulation of masonry

Fig. 7. Insulation brick:

 

1 — wall; 2 — cement mortar layer; 3 — slab insulation

 

Fig. 8. Double insulation of outer wall

Fig. 8. Double insulation of outer wall:

1 wall; 2 — glass; 3 — the slats of the crates; 4 — heat insulation plate; 5 — a sealing junction plates mesh

 

Fig. 9. Insulation wall mats

Fig. 9. Insulation wall mats:

1 —wall; 2 — rail; 3 — mats from mineral cotton wool; 4 — sheets of drywall

 

The use of yellow curtains or orange lamp shades on lamps of the same color, cover sofas and armchairs with covers of “Sunny” materials create additional psychological “warming” in the interior.

For quick warming, it is important, upon entering the apartment, immediately change wet and cold shoes warm Slippers or shoes, change of clothes or wear warm Bathrobe.

If dacha — winter

Here it is necessary to start with Windows: they should always be double, and the glass in them — in the double putty (Fig.1).

A very important aspect of individual insulation of buildings is the thermal insulation of the exterior walls. During the operation of the home in the heating mode, for which it was built, these walls condense water vapor from the premises. Humidity and black mold remain unpleasant memories of the winter, and the steps to getting rid of them very expensive.

Below is the method is effective and cheap solution to this problem. It is a double walls (condensation) — heat insulating mats of mineral wool (or foam sheets), and sheets of drywall.

Figure 9 shows a fragment of the outer wall 1, on which is fixed a vertical rail 2 at intervals of 1200 mm between them; here are laid mats of the insulator 3. Over the mats taped to the wall are panels of gypsum Board 4 attached with screws to the vertical rails.

 

The work begins with the preparation of the wall you want to strip from the mold if it has already formed since the previous winter, and wash with antiseptic.

On the stripped wall with a pencil or marker to apply a vertical line from floor to ceiling, with the distance between them is 1250 mm.

The upper layer of plaster in the area of vertical lines is cleaned with a wire brush and sponge before the appearance of clean concrete. This will adhere the slats of the crates, having a length of 2500 mm and cross section of 50×30 mm.

This prepared adhesive paste Bustilat and cement (if there is no Bustilat, you can use PVA glue); all is well mixed to the consistency of pastry cream.

Adhesive paste greased with first stripped portion, and then one of the wide sides of the slats, and 5 minutes later put it on covered with glue place. The same is done with the rest of the slats. The first and last slats are installed at the corners of the wall. The drying time of glue — about a day; at this period it is necessary to ensure tight adherence of the strips to the wall any by the way.

After setting binding substances go to install the mats of a heat insulator having a size of 600×600 mm, which are glued to the wall as well bustilatom. A distance of 1200 mm between the two rails for two adjacent panels. Floor to ceiling (depending on height) is located approximately four rows of mats, that is, eight pieces on one flight.

After the installation of the insulator produce thorough wetting his strong insecticide with residual action to avoid possible troubles due to insects.

Then cover the wall drywall panels having a width of 1250 mm, which are mounted so that the gaps between them were minimal.

The boards are fastened with screws with a length of 30 mm holes drilled with a drill with the appropriate diameter drill bit, followed by razzenkovkoj for “drowning” of the bolt head.

After the veneer is transferred to putty the gaps between the boards, between the boards and the ceiling, floor, walls.

Inevitable bumps on the joints roughened with sandpaper.

After drying putty transferred to the wrapping insulated walls with Wallpapers that are covered and the whole room (better to use washable). They play the role of an additional barrier to vapor, as the heat-insulated wall is non-vented and moisture in case of penetration of the shields may condense on the cold wall, destroying the design.

Practice has shown that the described measures, including the isolation of the cold wall condensation, applied in a one bedroom apartment, resulted in a temperature increase of 8°C and on the coldest days the temperature never dropped below 17°C (other heat sources, but the batteries were not applied).

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