The trimmer on the rear edge of the rudder is made of soft aluminum sheet. By bending this plate right or left, you can adjust the precision of the steering.
Both sides screwed the rudder control horns, curved sheet steel. To them are attached the ropes of control wiring course.
Rudders attached to the keel beam and the right for greater rigidity enhanced by two brackets of duralumin corner 25×25 mm.
At the end of the keel beam mounted tail wheel (on roller skates). It protects rudders from damage in case of accidental overturning of the gyroplane on the tail, as well as during takeoff or landing with too much nose up in the air.
You build a gyro-glider. Before proceeding to the construction of the rotor, check how to operate a ready-made mechanisms. Do it best in the area, from where there are flights of the gyroplane.
Sit on the seat and ensure that sit comfortably and get a foot pedal. If necessary, enclose under a back and an extra pillow. Jump on the seat — cushion should not prevent the touch of the frame body.
Decline feet the nose wheel and see how the springs return it to neutral position. Make sure that in this position the springs are not constricted, but not loose. At all junctions there should be no backlash.
Attach the gyro cable with a length of no more than ten meters to the car and perform taxiing at a speed not more 20 km/h to Warn the driver so that he suddenly braked sharply and did not reduce speed.
Remove the legs from the rungs of a braking device and see does it pass the gyroplane rectilinear direction. Otherwise adjust the tension of the springs. Learn how automatically to find the hand cord of the disclosure hook and reset the towline.
Rotor the rotor is placed on top of the mast, is the most complex node in the design of the gyroplane. The quality of the production, Assembly precision and the accuracy of its operation depends, without exaggeration, the life of the pilot. The main parts of this site — the D16T duralumin and steel SOHGS (all aluminum parts anodized, steel — kadmirovannyh).
The rotor housing is perhaps the most crucial detail, as in flight it in the ears of the housing hangs the whole structure of the gyroplane. In the housing are two bearing — radial and angular contact, abundantly lubricated with grease. Housing with bearings rotates on the axis of the rotor. On top of axis — spirtovanny Welt nut M20x1,5 (it should be noted that the simple nuts in the design of the gyroplane no: the most important of them splintery, the remaining self-locking). A blank cover hides the axle nut, protects the bearings from ingress of dust and moisture.
At the bottom of the rotor axis fixedly connected with the handle control of the gyroplane. Moving the handle, you can change the position of the rotor in space, since the swivel axis with the axle and the axle with its housing allows the axis deviation within the range dictated by the diameter of the hole of the limiter.
To the top of the mast the rotor is bolted by means of two plate brackets.
RECOMMENDATION: check the alignment of the gyro
When the rotor head is ready and installed on the gyroplane, you need to check the alignment of the gyro-glider. Insert the lugs of the rotor body, the bolt that attaches the rotor head with the blades of the rotor, and hang the gyro for this bolt, for example, on a sturdy tree branch.
Sit on seat and grasp the control knob. Keep it neutral. Let your assistant determine the position of the mast of a gyroplane. It should be tilted forward by the angle lies in the range of 2-6° (is — 4°). This test, usually called the weight balanced should be repeated every time you change the weight of the pilot or a gyroplane. In all cases, without such a check can not fly.
If the angle lies outside the allowed range, you should either move the pilot or add a little ballast in the tail. But if there has been a significant change in the mass of the pilot (it exceeded 100 kg) or on the autogyro has an engine, then you need to make a new thick plate brackets that hold the rotor on top of the mast.
The rotor blades are identical, so it suffices to describe the process of making only one of them.
Along the entire working length of the blade section its the same, no twist and change the geometry parameters are not provided. This greatly simplifies matters.
The best material for the frontal part of the blade — deletedrevision, used in aviation, marine. In its absence you can make yourself an analogue, glue epoxy thin sheets of plywood with strips of fiberglass. For such a suitable substitute aircraft plywood thickness of 1 mm. as sheets of plywood required for the manufacture of blades of length not be released, then you can glue on a mustache cut plywood strips. The joints in adjacent sheets should not be placed one above the other, they must be posted.
Better to glue on a flat surface, placing a polyethylene film to which an epoxy adhesive does not stick. Need to collect a total thickness of 20 mm. After applying the adhesive, the entire “pie” of the future blade tamped down any long and smooth object with a weight and leave to fully dry for a day. According to its mechanical properties of the resulting composition is no worse than present Delta-wood.
Given the profile front edge (sock) spar obtained using the template in the following way. Across the span of the spar in increments of 150-200 mm at the front edge grooved to fit the full pattern them to the spar. Wood between the grooves astrahana under the ruler.
In the rear edges of the longitudinal plane (cycles) selected “quarter” with a width of 10 and a depth of 1 mm under the plywood sheathing. Sheet lower cover (flush with spar) glued with epoxy resin, and to her and the spar — sheets of foam stamps PS-1, which are pre-planed to a height of 20 mm. Layer of foam strengthened with the necessary form template the top of the blade profile. As the rear edge of the used pine lath. Last glued the top valance: it was enough to hold her clamps to the “quarters” of the spar and the trailing edge and the sheet of plywood he took the desired shape (trailing edge of the blades should be slightly bent up, as shown in the figure).
Each blade has a weight of 100 g, mounted in a fairing on the front edge, and otryvnoi trimmer on the back. In the butt of the blade riveted steel plates, through which are drilled holes in the spar for mounting the blade to the rotor head.
RECOMMENDATION: balancing and setup of the blades
After manufacturing and painting the blades to adjust. Take this surgery very serious attention. Keep in mind that the cleaner and smoother the surface of the blades, the more lift they create, and the autogyro can fly at a lower speed.
Attach the blades to the rotor head and check the balancing. If a blade will be heavier and falls below, then drill out part of her cargo of lead, ensuring that the blades are equal. If this operation has no effect (delete not more than 50 g), then drill a few shallow holes in the thickest segment of the profile of the light blade and fill them with lead.
Since the blade tip during rotation have a circumferential velocity of about 500 km/h, then it is very important that they rotate in the same plane. Glue to the front edge at the end of the blades of the two colored plastic tape. On a windy day, choose a place where the wind blows constantly at a speed of about 20-30 km/h (check the airspeed indicator) and check the gyro against the wind. Strap him in a five-meter rope to the stump or firmly driven into the ground stake.
Sit on the seat, tie the straps yourself, and together with the gyro pipettes so that the rope taut. Holding the control stick with his left hand, put the rotor in a horizontal position, and the right spin of the blade as much as you can. Your assistant needs to observe the rotation of the rotor ends.
Gradually tilt the rotor back and let it spin in the wind to a higher speed. If multicolored stripes rotate in the same plane, the blades have the same pitch. If you feel the shaking of the airframe or the assistant will show that the blades do not rotate in one plane, then immediately unload the rotor by turning it in a horizontal position or even tilted forward. By bending the trim tabs at a slight angle up or down repeatedly until the correct rotation of the blades.
Increasing the rotor speed, the glider will swing, and the front wheel lifts. The rotor will be deflected back, which will lead to even Bo
more intensive unwinding. Put your feet on the ground and control the position of the gyro in space. If you feel that it takes off, then immediately unload the rotor by pulling the control knob. Practice so you will soon be ready for the first flight.
1 — keel beam; 2,3 — M6 bolts securing the farm; 4 — middle stringer (D16T, angle 25x25x2,5, L576,2); 5 — wide pad (D16T, sheet s2, 2); 6 — narrow trim (D16T, sheet s2); 7 — short stringer (D16T, angle 25x25x2,5,1.265, 2); 8 — long stringer (D16T, angle 25x25x2,5, 1Л063, 2); 9— rivet d5 (aluminum)
1 — bolt M5 (6 pieces); 2 — cross (D16T, pipe 12×2); 3 stringer (D16T, area, 15×15, 2); 4 — clutch
THE PRACTICE OF PILOTING
As in flight involves not only a pilot, but the driver of the car, then they must be full interoperability. Best of all, if the car, except the driver, will be another person who will be able to follow the flight and take all the signals of the pilot (reducing or increasing speed, etc.).
Before the flight, once again check the technical condition of the gyro-glider. At first use a relatively short towline length not exceeding 20 m. be Sure to warn the driver that should accelerate smoothly and in any case not to brake sharply.
Check the gyro against the wind. Spin the rotor with your right hand and wait until he starts to gain momentum at the expense of the air pressure. If the wind is weak, give the driver the command to move at a speed of 10-15 km/h on the airspeed indicator. Continue to help the rotor by hand until unable to do so.
As acceleration is acceptable with the rotor all the way back and give the driver the signal to increase the speed to 20-30 km/h. Controlling the nose wheel, move the car in a straight line. When the wheel comes off the ground, move your feet on the pedals. By manipulating the control stick, hold this position of a gyroplane, so he moved only on the side wheels not touching the ground nor the nose nor the tail. Wait until the increased air speed will not lift the gyro into the air in this position. Adjust the height of the longitudinal movements of the control stick (the rudder is not effective because the glider is towed on a rope). In flight, do not allow slack in the tow rope. Do not put the bends at high speed.
Before planting, line your position behind the car, until he reached the end of the runway. Gently tilt the rotor forward and fly at a height of about one meter. Maintain this position small “twitching” of the control knob. (In General, unlike the control plane, the gyro motion of the handle should be smooth and sharp, it literally jerks.)
Signal the driver to reduce speed. When he does, push the rotor fully back. Rear wheel gyroplane must first touch the ground. Keep the rotor is deflected back to prevent slack towline. General description, allow the vehicle to turn and move with him to the start. Keep the position of the rotor such that it continued to rotate. If flights will be no more, put the rotor in a horizontal position and when the rotational speed will decrease, stop by his hand. Never leave seat until the rotor turns, otherwise the gyro can fly without you.
Gradually, with the development of piloting technique, increase the length of the towline up to a hundred meters and climb to a higher altitude. The last stage of development of the autogyro flight will be a free flight after-Ceplene from the towline. In no case do not reduce in this mode, the air speed is below 30 km/h!
With a height of 60 m distance free flight can reach 300 m. Learn to make turns, to climb to a higher altitude. If you start with hills, then the range can be kilometers.
R. MERKULOV, air force Colonel, retired, Professor