Mini makiki always use the boys great success. And for good reason! Small size, cost-effective, modern appearance, excellent performance — what more can you ask for? Maybe that’s why many of them roll up his sleeve so take tools. After all, if you try, you can do mokik, able to compete with serial two-wheeled machines. However, it is not very easy, but it’s worth it.
The frame of our microvesicle welded. If you do not have the skills of welder, before you take the job, find out if there’s a workshop that would help you.
It should be borne in mind that the design uses a set of purchased parts and assemblies. So, front fork and saddle from a moped “Riga-11” wheel from mini-mokiki, engine — moped, type /-50, headlight, tail light and fuel tank from any moped wheel scooter or kids bike. To buy them is not so difficult. Of course, the fit and other details, but in this case, you will have to make adjustments to the design of the frame.
After the acquisition of finished units redraw their lateral projection on thick paper or cardboard and scissors cut out the silhouettes that will be needed the day of the layout of the machine on the Plaza — an accurate drawing of the machine in full size. Only with his help can finally to tie all the elements of any mechanism to specify their layout.
1 — wheel front (from scooter);
2 — front mud flap (from scooter);
3 — the front fork;
4 — headlight (from any of a moped);
5 — frame;
6 — fuel tank (from any of a moped);
7 — saddle (from a moped “Riga-11”);
8 — rear mud flap (from scooter);
9 — light position (from any of a moped);
10 — runing;
12 — brake Shoe;
13 — engine V-50;
14 — muffler.
For the Plaza you will need a sheet of plywood or a drawing paper of a size not less than 1,5×1 m. For the images of this machine is more than enough! Plazovy binding start by placing the wheels. The distance between them (the base) — 800 mm. Then the silhouette of the front wheel podstawie “fork”, it is “the wheel”… Placed between the wheels, the silhouette of the engine, select the optimal location, not forgetting about either comfort or the reliability of the motor mounting on the frame. It makes sense to cut additional cardboard “fixing nodes” — front and back.
Now try to combine all the elements of mokiki single frame. The main requirement to it — conciseness: no unnecessary parts, simplicity of form and maximum workability. One of the variants of the design in our drawing. This frame is of the spinal type. Her upper arc composed of two curved tubes, curved rear fork of the steel strip. The rear fixing unit of the engine consists of two notched plates cut from a steel sheet of 3 mm thickness and welded to the seat tube. Of the same material cut the front mount of the engine. And finally, the seat tube connecting together the arc of the frame, rear fork and rear mount of the engine.
The manufacture of the frame start with the procurement of its components. For the top-level arcs of the frame need two curved pipes with an outside diameter of about 30 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm. by the Way, to bend such pipes in the cold, without heating. It is only necessary to fill the pipe with dry sifted sand and shut out the holes with wooden plugs. The role of bending will suit even the car Jack. A simple device for fastening pipes-billet — cut rail or channel to which the workpiece is attached to a thick (5 mm diameter) wire. Then remains to bring the workpiece under the Jack and pushing with a lever rod, slightly bend the pipe. Moving the Jack to the next point, repeat the operation. And control work using a simple template — cut thick wire, bent according to the contour of the Plaza is depicted on the upper arch of the frame.
Fabrication of the remaining elements of the frame you are unlikely to be puzzling. Seat tube — steel (length 400 mm, wall thickness 2.5 mm and diameter 34 mm). Easy to do and the rear fork. This item horseshoe-shaped bend of 5 mm steel strip width of about 30 mm. In pens of the fork provide the grooves with a width of 10 mm under the axle of the rear wheel.
Welding of frames spend in stages. First, all elements of the frame tie copper or soft steel wire and after checking the correctness of the Assembly tack weld in two or three points in each joint. Then another inspection, if necessary, progressive and final welding.
The next step is to install the frame brackets motor mounts, cut from steel sheet. Secure with bolts and nuts on the engine, and the one with wire — frame. The brackets tack welded to the frame: front or top of the arc, rear — to seat tube. Then remove the engine and completely weld the brackets.
Before you engage in the Assembly of mokik, it is necessary to modify the rear wheel. The easiest way is to weld over the spokes of the conical disks, curved steel sheet with a thickness of 1-1,5 mm Weld should be points in increments of 20-30 mm at the circumference of the wheel rim and with a step of 10 mm around the circumference of the sleeve. But before welding, remove the sleeve parts clutch and brake mechanism, otherwise they will overheat.
1 — exhaust pipe;
2 — the case of the muffler;
3 — “thread waste” of fine steel or copper wire or glass wool;
4 — pipe divider;
5 — cover.
You can enhance the wheel without welding. To do this, from a sheet of aluminum 3 mm thick and cut out two disks the diameter of the rim. In the centre of each disc, cut a hole under the bushing, after which together with the bushing mount them to the wheel using the M5 bolts and distance sleeves — sections of tubes with inner diameter 5.5—6 mm. Over a distance bushings lay dural strip. Wheel ready. It remains to attach the driven sprockets from any moped or even a lead front — bike type “Eaglet”. It attaches with three bolts M8 nuts.
Now install the wheel into the forks attach to the frame, the engine, fuel tank, seat, headlight, ignition coil, steering wheel and controls — grip throttle, clutch lever and gear lever — hand or foot.
1 — tire with a camera;
2 — bolt M6;
3 — Bush remote;
4 — sprocket driven (from any of a moped);
5 — Bush bike (front wheel);
6 — bolt and nut with thread M8;
7 — cheek hub (aluminum);
8 — rim (aluminum).
Not do it without the brake and foot pegs. For reliable stopping power is quite enough for one brake wheel — rear. The brake is simplified, drum type. This is a clip made of steel sheet thickness 2.5—3 mm, welded to it the brake pedal is located on the right side of mokik on the rear fork of the frame. Steps — self-made from pipe sections. They are fixed by welding on the feathers of the front fork.
A few words about fuel. Mokiki engine runs on a mixture of gasoline And-76 with the engine oil at a ratio of 25:1. This means that two-gallon canister of gasoline will need 0.4 l of oil.
Before starting the engine make sure the transmission is filled with engine oil, and the ignition set in accordance with the regulations. Move the shift lever to the neutral position, open the fuel valve, click utilities float carb and fill the float chamber, vigorously tap the leg kick. Warming up the engine, depress the clutch, put it in first gear and gently release the clutch lever, adding “gas”. When mokik start, accelerate its speed to 15 km/h, again depress the clutch and turn on the second transfer. In any case, do not drive at top speed, not convinced of the reliability of the brakes.
All right? Then Godspeed! Try to be reasonable. Even a mini-mokik can cause Maxi trouble.
Mini-mokiki — especially a land vehicle is easy to turn into a motor catamaran. It is enough to put mokik on floats, cross beams and fastened (on the same day and fixed the machine) to be installed on the transoms of the propeller ” wheels and run the engine…
1 — float;
2 — timber fenders;
3 — knot front fastening mokiki;
4 — mokik;
5 — rear node mounting mokiki;
6 — sprocket tension;
7 — chain roller;
8 — wheel propeller;
9 — feather steering;
10 — lever steering duplici pen;
11 — loop articulated steering of the pen;
12 — a designated place;
13 — roller;
14 — cross beam (2 PCs).
If you like this design, get to work. Catamaran hull made of hardboard with a thickness of 4 mm. as illustrated raschertite sheet of hardboard on the cells of 100×100 mm and transfer it to the contour of the hull. As you can see, each body of the float is formed from a single sheet. To bend it exactly according to the planned lines, cut them with sharp knife-joint by approximately half the thickness. Bending the workpiece, to drill in the joints of the edges of a series of holes with a pitch of about 50 mm. And “stitch” the hull with pieces of copper or annealed steel wire.