ON ONE DOISNEAU'S SAILOf course, sailing the Board someone able to buy in the store. However, most can’t afford it. Such will want to do it yourself. Especially since there is no design supercomplex forms. To Board a pleasure craft type are well suited simplistic lines and a classical production technology of small vessels. So, for the cause. We start of course, with the main.

BODY. To start on a sheet of graph paper, drawing paper or any other paper in accordance with the theoretical drawing of the hull is drawn Plaz — cross-section. To determine the true size of the sections use the scales shown under the drawing. Note that on a theoretical drawing shows the outer contours of the boards, so when drawing frames and their contours it is necessary to underestimate the thickness of the plating.
Next, the outlines of the frames are transferred to a piece of plywood 12 mm thick, or of planks with a thickness of 15…20 mm, which are cut parts transverse framing of the hull. In the corners of each of the frames are selected, the grooves for the slats in the longitudinal set, as well as holes to drain trapped in the body of water scupper.
The next step is to prepare the slipway for Assembly of the housing. In principle, they can be a flat Board with a thickness of 50 to 60 mm and a width of 250…300 mm, mounted on the workshop floor or a few feet. To start on the slipway with the help of the linings of wooden bars fixed keel timber section 20×40 mm; the profile of it from the side view should match the theoretical design.
On Kileva the beam at a distance of 400 mm from each other are laid out of the plane of arrangement of the frames, after which the latter is temporarily fixed to the keel with nails and wooden wedges.
Now prepare the stringers — pine laths with cross-section 20×20 mm. If billets of the required length is not found, dock two, cut bars “on us” and connecting them with epoxy glue. Next, the stringers are adjusted sequentially to each of the frames and then secured with epoxy glue and screws. It is desirable to use brass or galvanised steel screws.
After curing of epoxy outer contours of the frames and stringers are aligned in accordance with the theoretical drawing. While as a control tool is necessary to use flexible rail, and as the processing — plane, a rasp and coarse sandpaper.
In the thus prepared skeleton are pasted two dural tube outer diameter of 22 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm, to which are attached additional parts and fins.
 R and S. 1. Sailing Board with a housing of simplified construction (the planned projection of the sail conventionally not shown)
R and S. 1. Sailing Board with a housing of simplified construction (the planned projection of the sail conventionally not shown):
1 — housing 2 — pole with a mast hinge, 3 — start-sheet, 4 — sail 5 — hicok-wishbone, 6 — additional parts, 7 — fin.

R and p. 2. Scheme for the construction of the hull of a sailing Board.
R and S. 2. Scheme for the construction of the hull of a sailing Board.

R and p. 3. The theoretical drawing of the hull of a sailing Board
R and S. 3. The theoretical drawing of the hull of a sailing Board.
R and p. 4. A typical cross section of the housing (for example SHP. 5)
R and S. 4. A typical cross section of the housing (for example SHP. 5):
1 — stringer, 2 — frame, 3 — deck plating (plywood thickness 3…4 mm), 4,7 — side stringers, 5 — plate to enhance the sealing axis sverzov (plywood with a thickness of 10…12 mm) 6 — sheathing Board (plywood with a thickness of 3…4 mm), 8 — hull bottom (plywood thickness 3…4 mm), 9 — keel beam, 10 — axis sverzov (pipe 0 22×2 mm).

R and p. 5. Sail
R and S. 5. Sail.
R and p. 7. Swiercz
R and S. 7. Swiercz.

Fig. 6. Mast hinge
Fig. 6. Mast hinge:
1 — mast glass, 2 — cracker, 3 — bolt MB, 4 — bottom, 5 — axis masts, 6 — lower fork, 7 — washer.

R and p. 8. Hicok-wishbon
R and p. 8. Hicok-wishbon:
1 — the Central part wishbone, 2 — hicok, 3 — bolt with nut, 4 — duck.

The casing frame of the sailing Board is made of plywood thickness of 3 mm or hardboard with a thickness of 4 mm. Fastening sheet metal on the frame is a small galvanized nails and epoxy glue, which introduced the wood flour (also suitable talc, baby powder or tooth powder), in order to reduce the fluidity of the epoxy and thereby ensure the continuity of the adhesive joint.
To start the covering should be from the bottom. Then sheathed the sides and even in the last turn deck. Keep in mind that before all deck plating inside of the housing and the casing, and the frame should be covered with several layers of hot linseed oil or hardwood varnish — this will help them become water resistant. Similarly, varnished and blanks deck from the inside.and only after that they are placed on their designated places. In the area of the windsurfer deck is enhanced with two strips of plywood or hardboard.
After curing of the epoxy binder case vyshkurivaetsya, all sharp edges are rounded smoothly, and joints proshpatlevyvajut composition of epoxy and all the same wood flour, talc or tooth powder. Finally finished the hull, glue it with a layer of fiberglass on epoxy glue, again Proskura and color bright enamel paints. In the area of the athlete apply a rough coating on the freshly painted lines enhance the deck using a small sieve pour fine sawdust. After drying the excess sawdust is removed, and on top glued to the colorful sawdust substrate to apply another layer of enamel. And finally install deck steps — steel sleeve, which is fixed spurs of the mast.
In the rear of the hull, transom Board, will involve the installation of one or two tubes. The fact is that to create a fully sealed case is almost impossible, and so penetrating it could be after the next voyage to drain, there are holes with plugs. The holes in the transom Board it is necessary to delineate the lengths of aluminium tubing of suitable diameter.
Additional parts. For their production will need a Board with a thickness of about 20 mm and a width of 250 mm. Form shvartza shown in one of our drawings. The underwater part shvartza profiled — its cross section resembles the symmetric profile of the aircraft wing, the maximum thickness of the cross section is approximately 1/3 of its width. After final processing, additional parts are pasted over with a layer of thin fiberglass to the epoxy binder, proskurivska, primed and painted. The axis of rotation svarca is galvanized steel or kadmirovannye hairpin. At one end of it threaded, and the axle is fixed on swerte using two screws.
In the working position of the additional parts are held by the rubber wire and it stops. Please note that shallow water is not dangerous to a sailing Board with verzemi this design: on the shoals additional parts simply leaning back.FIN. This detail of the sailboat is docked to the rear of the sailing Board. As sverzov, on the boat, two of them — right and left. Cut fins out of plywood desyatiletnego. Their cross-section is symmetrical wing profile. These details are handled exactly the same way as additional parts. Sailing on Board they are fixed with the aid of a simple device consisting of a threaded stud and a cylindrical rubber tube, whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the pipe and glued to the back of the case. To begin with, the tube fits over the stud and lightly compressed between two nuts and washers, and then is introduced into the pipe. Further, the external nut is tightened, the rubber tube when it is squeezed, increases its diameter and tightly wedged inside the tube. It remains only to put on the projecting pin fin and secure it with the nut.
MAST. Best of all, of course, if you can get a four-meter mast segment of the dural tube with an outer diameter of 40 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Good mast is obtained from a pine bar section of 50×50 mm. This mast vystragivaetsja in the form of a cone with the diameter of the lower base of about 50 mm and the top is about 30 mm. After final treatment this mast is glued with two layers of fiberglass on epoxy glue. There is another method of manufacturing the mast — vyklevyvanija of epoxy binder and fiberglass. To do this, first is made a tapered rod is exactly the same as the wooden mast, which we have just mentioned. Further, this mast is tight-natugo wrapped with plastic tape — cloth with a width of about 200 mm, cut from the plastic film and rolled like a bandage in a roll. At the beginning and end of the winding tape is fixed with tape. Further, the mast is glued in several layers of long (preferably during the entire length of the mast) strips of fiberglass: the total thickness of veclachi should be about 3 mm. without waiting for curing of the binder, again natugo bandage the fiberglass mast on top of the plastic “bandage” and leave in this position for a day. After curing epoxy resin Vileika is removed from the blanks. This operation is difficult, you might have to use a small winch motor or the old fashioned way, tying the disc and Vileika nylon ropes or with ropes to two posts in 10…15 m from each other. If you press hard on the rope side of the disc moves relative to vyklicky, after which the latter easily removable. Stays in the conical tube at the top and bottom to insert the epoxy glue wooden plugs — and the mast is ready.
MAST HINGE. According to the definition of a sailing Board is a vessel with a free sail. In other words, the hull of a sailboat is connected with the mast by a universal joint. To do it, you will need two segments of pipe (its inner diameter should correspond to the thickness of the mast in its lower part). From blanks cut two forks, as shown in the drawing, which are connected using a thick washer (biscuit) and four bolts. To a lesser fork, welded bottom, and it is a steel pin with which the mast is fixed in the socket on the deck. A big plug is fixed in the lower part of the mast with screws and epoxy glue.
WISHBONE. This is the name of curved metal or wooden hicok by which the sail takes the desired shape, and the windsurfer manages the boat, holding hands for this one “lever”. For the manufacture of wishbone will take a couple dural pipes or wooden rods of circular cross section with a diameter of about 30 mm. In front of wishbone fixed two poluchaut carved from beech bars of suitable size. Among themselves they are connected with a hinge — bracket of steel wire with a diameter of 5 mm. In its rear part half wishbone are joined with the bolt and wing nut. Poluchaut pasted inside porous rubber or felt.
SAIL. The easiest way, of course, buy ready to sail in the store, “Sport”. However, it is not too difficult to sew it on their own. Suits fabric Bologna, pillow tick fabric such as Dacron, and improvised composites on the basis of the cheapest satinov and plastic films are welded together using a electric iron.
Manufacturer of a sail begins with a split level ground floor-the base of the triangle in accordance with our drawing (triangle ABC). Then in the front, back and bottom scattering sails are deposited quantities of the so-called sickles, and then at the Plaza by using long flexible battens depicted as smooth curves connecting flowy angle with skotovi, galso-St — and valovym and Shkotovo — gulsevim. And at the end of the marking plasma contours laderman and transparent window.
Now — the layout of the seams. It is conducted from the base of the seam, which is a perpendicular rear side of the base of the tre-gon dropped from the tack corner of the sail. But the rest of the seams are planned in parallel with the step of the base, a few smaller width of fabric being used.
Remember: to sail well drawn, that is, they have a high aerodynamic quality, it is necessary to have a so-called “belly”. This can be achieved if, when cutting out the panels of the seam lines do not straight, and convex, with curvature of 30…40 mm. Then after stapling we will get the much necessary we the belly.”
To contracepti cloth is the most convenient seam “zigzag”. Then the sail is cut to the contours of katarin, then primetyvajut and prostrachivajut laderman and then close up the edges of the sail with the help of a cotton or synthetic tape.
Mast pocket is best cut out of a thicker fabric than went on the sail, for example, awning, tent, etc. All the corners of the sail are reinforced by the linings of durable canvas; galbavy and sheet corners are sealed brass eyelets or using nylon thread is sewn a metal ring, and then inside the ring of fabric is cut. Hole the tack angle of the sail is designed for tamping (stretching) of the sail over the mast hole in Shkotovo — for tensioning of the sail between the mast and wishbone.
Battens are cut from thin wood strips — it is best to use for this wooden school rulers. By the way, good armor out of the W-shaped polystyrene profiles, used as a guide slider for sliding glass sideboards, book shelves, etc.
So, everything is ready. The Board is fully equipped with additional parts fixed on it and the fins, prepared and the sail attached to the mast with nylon kartikami, and in front of the securely bound wishbone start-sheet — nylon or linen end with half a dozen tied it knots.
For a start, let the Board (without sails!) on the water after checking that the transom drain plugs are closed. Climb on Board, stand it upright and for some time work out g look for the limits of the possible movements of both back and forth and right and left from the diametrical plane. Note the position of your feet when the Board begins to roll over, and in the future try not to cross that line.
If you already feel quite confident the Board can move on to training with a sail. For starters, however, need to gear up: wear woolen socks and shoes and a lifejacket. Such equipment must wear: at first you will often fall, and sneakers with wool socks will protect your feet from injuries; appointment of same life jacket as it seems, it is possible not to specify.
So, you are fully equipped. Again drain the water on the sailing Board, mast insert spurs in steps — sleeve on the deck and put the sail on the water. Then stand up on the Board so that the wind blew you in the back, and the sail was located on the water on the leeward side. Now, hold the start-the mainsheet and pull the sail out of the water. This is not easy, the fabric “sticks” to the surface of the water, so the first movements of the lifting mast must be strong and sharp. Tearing the sail from the water, slowly lift it up until will not be able to grab wishbone.
To start moving the best when the wind is blowing under direct* angle to the longitudinal axis of the Board — such a course is called galfvind. First, install the sail so that its angle relative to the longitudinal axis was about 45″. The Board starts to move and will most likely immediately turn aside from the chosen course. To change the direction of movement, try to tilt the sail forward or backward when the center of the sail and the center of lateral resistance of the hull will change their mutual arrangement, will appear the moment of forces, turning the sailboat, and he changes course. Further support direction deviation forward or back the sails.
Turning to the sailing ships is the intersection of his nose or stern line of the wind. So, when the wind crosses the line of feed of the sailing ship, the turn is called gybing, but if the wind line crosses the nose of the boat, the turn is called a tack. When you rotate the sail is thrown from one side to the other: to ensure this, a windsurfer or throws wishbone from one side to the other, moving at the same time on the opposite side of the Board sailing before the mast, or moving the sail from one side to the other through a fore end of the sailing Board.
I would like to warn that the experience of control windsurfer comes far not at once. Not once you’ll have to swim, repeatedly pulling then out of the water the heavy sail. However, the enormous pleasure that will get you fully mastered the wayward sailing Board, can not be compared with any other pleasure.

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