AND THE FLOOR WILL BE LIKE NEW

AND THE FLOOR WILL BE LIKE NEWThere comes a time when you suddenly notice. your wooden floors in the rooms or in the room begin to creak or appear defects such as swelling; the sagging, rotting. You begin to understand that no repair is necessary. The faults of the sexes, few who can avoid. In the palaces of nobles and kings Park! preserved to our time by Goy simple reason that the master was threatened with physical punishment for poor performance. Modern builders. unfortunately, often allow the marriage. Especially this sin of the so-called special master, abusing the fact that then they are almost impossible to find to draw to Troubleshooting. Relentless time on the floors, too, has its devastating effects.

 
There are normative service life of various coatings. The developer must know them in order to assess the status of their priests. Suggest to refer to such documents as “Recommendations on the priests” (in the development of SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulation and finishes”) and “Technical advice on technology floors during reconstruction and capital repairs of residential buildings” (TR 148-03).
 
With quality installation and proper care parquet and plank floors are able to serve 30 — 50 years, But this time can be shorter not only because of the design of marriage, but also due to “hard” operating conditions. For example, because wood is naturally air conditioned with high humidity coating of this material will take away the moisture under low humidity — give it to the environment. If you pop a plank, then do not worry in such extremes of humidity there. Massive Board is able to handle more extreme loads. Take as an example a wooden pop baths. And music of parquet flooring is more sensitive and can have undesirable defects. Therefore, in the room where they are stacked, it is recommended to maintain humidity in the range of 50 — 70% at a temperature of 20 — 22°C. If the street is damp, it is not recommended to open the Windows. Enough to ventilate the room through the half-open window. Should not be allowed to accidentally spilled the water remained on the surface of the flooring It cleaning should be damp, well-wrung cloth or simply a vacuum cleaner. This floor is very sensitive to mechanical damage: it can be scratched by legs of furniture or rough soles of shoes. Under the supports of cabinets and beds to put a soft substrate made of pieces of linoleum, leather or carpet. The lacquer should be updated every four years. You can not avoid exposure to the floor of street dirt, which is composed of fine abrasive particles (enough for entrance Mat). Minor scratches and cracks can be repaired with special products that are sold in specialized stores. Traces of rubber footwear, Shoe Polish and grease stains are removed with cleaning compounds kerosene and alcohol.
Well, if the signs of damage appeared, it is not necessary to postpone the elimination of the defect on the back burner because it may result only in deterioration of the coating.
 
Repair of parquet floors
 
The definition of “parquet floors” suitable for several types of wooden flooring.
 
Piece parquet consists of wooden planks, or, as they are called rivets. The ends they have a ridge or groove. by which planks are joined together into a continuous coating.
 
Mosaic parquet is a set of parquet strips assembled into an array, is glued on a substrate (fiberglass, Blockboard) under pressure. Its front side is covered with paper or adhesive tape, which after Assembly is removed.
 
Parquet Board is usually produced in the form of a multilayer structure sizes 125×1200 mm or 195×2400 mm. thickness 14 — 16 mm. Its front side is covered with a layer of precious wood with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.
 
Parquet Board made of plywood or Blockboard sizes from 400×400 up to 800×800 mm. which is covered with high quality veneer, solid and semi-solid wood.
 
Fig. 1. Removing a plank from the damaged array
 
Fig. 1. Removing a plank from the damaged array
 
Fig. 2. Nailing the studs to the boardwalk
 
Fig. 2. Nailing the studs to the boardwalk
 
Fig. 3. The elimination of the gap between the floor boards with the help of Reiki
 
Fig. 3. The elimination of the gap between the floor boards with the help of Reiki
 
Fig. 4. Rallying the floorboards by means of two wooden wedges
 
Fig. 4. Rallying the floorboards by means of two wooden wedges
 
Evil gates of flooring is water. Probably everyone at least once in life saw in the crash of a heating system floor heaves up a terrible hill. Often in this case, the coating need to be removed and discarded. Hot water destroys flooring so that it is almost impossible to recover. I hope that your house is equipped with quality and reliable heating system that will not allow to happen such trouble. However, no one is immune from spills of large amounts of water, and as a result of the violation of insulation of the Foundation, excessive moisture in the room. The curvature surface can also be caused by infringement of technology of installation: if workers stacked slats with a gap less than the standing rules.
 
Swelling of the floor of parquet completely disposable. On swollen place, we have to put a heavy load and dry the room. If that does not work, carefully disassemble the damaged area, and damp warped planks prigruzit and drier separately.
 
Far more dangerous is the swelling of the parquet boards. The reason is in defect of the product or poor-quality surface coating a varnish. In this situation, most likely, have to replace the damaged boards with new.
 
Very often when walking on the floor, there is a feeling that the coating in some places loose. Such plots bend under the weight of a person and re-straightened, freed from the load. The causes of the fluctuation depend on the kind of flooring and its Foundation can be very different (destruction of cement-sand screed, a low-quality glues and mastics, the application of the adhesive material on the surface negruntovanny. the appearance of a destructive fungus, the reduction of strength of the lag).
 
If the floor is covered with parquet, the damaged area (usually one or more staves) should be examined. Carefully using a chisel to split the defective bar part. First, cut down the middle, then take out the rest (Fig.1), and then the base is carefully cleaned of old putty In the screed it is necessary to putty all defective deepening of the cement, which for strength it is recommended to add silicate glue. After drying of the repair area a fresh new strap attach adhesive composition. If the base is wooden, you can nail them with nails, length 40 mm diameter 1.6 — 1.8 mm. 1воздь One score in the front slot and two longitudinal (Fig.2). To avoid a split strap, need to pre-drill holes smaller than the nail diameter.
 
If the modules are placed on a wooden base with no postmark, then to eliminate squeaks under the flooring it is necessary to lay thick cardboard or paper. The new part of the cover adjust flush with the floor jointer, and the surface scrape.
 
Due to the fact that parquet material prior to installation was not dried between the compounds over time, gaps appear. They should be cleaned with a stiff wire and a vacuum cleaner to remove the dirty particles and old glue, then mix carpenter’s glue with fine sawdust and carefully luted. removing the cloth from the surface excess compounds.
As you know, the floorboard is mounted on the fiberboard sheets laid on joists. For any violations in such places there is drawdown, the fragility of the coating. It is possible and the decrease in the strength of the sand backfill and thermal insulation. After strengthening these elements, the defect disappears.
 
In order to avoid spoilage it is impossible to cover the parquet with waterproof materials for more than five days. Parquet made of pine and larch is only valid in areas with эксплуа1ации which will not be intensive wear of the sexes. In the room you should lay flooring only from one wood species and one figure; the use of different color and size is only possible to create a special pattern.
 
Repair wooden floor
 
The characteristic lesions of floors from shpuntovannyh boards are abrasion, cracks, warpage. deflections and decay.
 
The increase in gaps between the blades, their warping and rotting often due to the use of unseasoned wood, and the creaking and camber from the wrong distribution of load-bearing lag, the poor performance of ties. It is also recommended to conduct a visual examination of: severing one Board, it is necessary to determine the distance between joists. When laying the floorboards with a thickness of 29 mm it should be equal to 400 mm, and the use of boards in the thickness 37 mm – 600 mm Quality ties you can check incised awl several parallel furrows and then across them at a 45° angle just a few more lines. If the angles at the intersections are not crumbled, the coupler is of high quality. In the presence of small gaps between the blades, you can do a slight facelift. To do this, the length of the cracks take a thin rail, a little wider the gap, the lower part stesyvajut at an angle (reducing the cone), then cover the sides of the carpenter’s glue and hammered with a wooden mallet or a hammer wrapped in a cloth to the floor level (Fig.3). After the operation, when the glue dries, you should shave the protruding part of the rail and paint the color of the coating.
 
Worse, if the boards have shrunk so much that between them over the entire area of the room formed (purpose. In this case, you will have to work hard: you must perform the bonding. Start the process with tidy remove nails. You need to flip the boards in the bottom margin of the surface of a log, and then the butt of the hammer to return them to their place, making the nails come out. Then the usual nail puller remove nails through a wooden substrate (it will prevent dents from the metal of the tool). It is recommended to remove the warped floorboards and replace them with the new extreme at the walls — can not touch, if the gap does not look out from under the baseboards, Then it is necessary to unite the parts by means of two wedges (Fig.4). Do not have to salvage all the coverage — enough to release four boards.
 
After rallying the floorboards need to nail up a length of 60 to 70 mm with a slope to the surface lat, zaglubit the hats dobojnikom or core. In the interval where the wedges, it is necessary to insert a Board slightly larger width (so that it is firmly sat down in her place) and just to nail her. If bonding is carried out from the wall, you can use several wedges with the substrate. The clearance from the edge of the Board to the wall should be 10 — 15 mm (Fig.5).
 
If the damage is only a small part of the fabric, the defective area can be carefully drill a small drill bit on the marked strictly across the Board lines, and then knock him out with a chisel. Then the same with a chisel need to make a saddle, beveled from two sides under an angle of 45°. The segment should fit down to the period of coverage. After brushing the edges of the bar carpenter’s glue, it is nailed to the saddle perpendicular to the bevel (Fig.6). The surface of the insert protruding above the floor level, you should shave.
 
Fig. 5. The rallying of the floorboards from the wall
 
Fig. 5. The rallying of the floorboards from the wall
 
Fig. 6. Replace the damaged section of floor Board
 
Fig. 6. Replace the damaged section of floor Board
 
Fig. 7. Insert a piece of tongue-and-groove boards
 
Fig. 7. Insert a piece of tongue-and-groove boards
 
Fig. 8. Installation of ventilation grates sex
 
Fig. 8. Installation of ventilation grates sex
 
Work on strengthening the sexes will be performed more efficiently if instead of nails use screws, however, as we know, they are much more expensive.
 
If the damaged area is large, you will have to change the whole Board or do the insert so that it relied on two joists. All rotten parts are necessarily removed, otherwise they will become! cause further destruction of the coating. In the presence of the floorboards of the lower ledge from the groove insert must be cut, and the top will fall on the crest of the adjacent boards (Fig.7).
 
You should pay attention to the logs. All damaged areas were removed and in their place a beat or fill with fresh inserts. In the process of dismantling the floor do not forget about processing the bottom of the cover with antiseptics. In the process of laying the boards need to thoroughly clean the surface of the screed from sawdust and shavings, as this debris can cause decay of wood.
 
The deflection of the floorboards indicates insufficient amount of lag or mismatch of the thickness of the boards standard. To solve the problem, you can put additional logs or to beat them across the support bars.
 
The creaking of the floor caused by friction of the side walls of planks or loose. The nails connecting the boards with the joists, it is necessary to bury with the help dobojnika or core. In the gap between boards can be filled with talcum powder, graphite powder or to hammer in wooden wedges, and if that does not work — tighten the screws, sinking their heads.
 
Diagonally, in the corners of the room, you should install special ventilation grids for ventilation of the space under the boards. Fencing of the gratings should be over floor level on 10 mm. so they do not spill water during washing of the coating (Fig.8).
 
After the panels are sealed, proceed to install the baseboards. Krepit them it is necessary not to the floor and to the wall. Previously along it for a distance of 1 m from each other at the attachment height of the plinth, drill a hole and hammer in wooden plugs. You can use dowels with plastic plugs-spacers.
 
For high-quality color the surface of the wooden floor you must protsiklevat. This is done with the help of special elektroshlifovalnaya machine or manual cycle. Tool pass through all places where the old paint was peeling like fruit or covered with cracks, and always along the grain of the wood. The treated area, polishing cloth, while grabbing and edges durable old color. They were then primed two coats of paint thinned with 10% white spirit of the Old coating prior to painting must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, washed with 5% solution of soda ash (0.5 kg per 10 liters of water) or a solution of detergent, rinse with warm water and dry well. After the primer has dried the entire floor is covered with undiluted paint.
 
V. HARBLUK

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