IN LIGHT OF THE NEW RULESSince 1983, the Federation of auto modeling sport of the USSR introduced the class E-2. It includes the simplest kordovye model cars with electric motor supplied from the outside! about current source. A new class immediately attracted the attention of young athletes. Simplicity of design, availability of materials and engines, the possibility of competition in every gym, even the school, equal conditions for all invaluable advantages, especially from the standpoint of the development of mass automodelisme. Because machines of this class no matter what the weather outside the Windows, in the village or in the city is a circle of aviamodelirovaniya.

What are the basic requirements for models E-2? They are simple. First, and perhaps most importantly it allowed the use of only standard microelectromotors produced by the Moscow factory of toys or Estonian plants! “Normal” voltage is 3.5 V. second, the model should be similar to a real car (sport, serial) and carefully decorated. A sloppy appearance may lead to the fact that the jury will not allow her to compete. More restrictions that are directly relevant to micromachines, no! But there is a possibility of finding optimal designs and best running of the scheme. The only thing that is mentioned in the rules relative to the model, is the mandatory presence of stopping devices, and requirements for cord strap. The distance from the axis of symmetry of the machine to the holes in the strap in the range of 130-140 mm minimum hole diameter of 3 mm. Strap should carry two contacts ø 2 mm, similar to the core end glow plug. With their help, the motor is connected with the electrical Konami. Speed measurement is carried out with speed on the base 4 of a circle when radius is set to “track” 3.5 m external Power supply must be capable of regulating the voltage on the cords in the range of 0-6 V and change the polarity. A current source is a rectifier on the output to 12 V DC voltage.
So, we met with all the requirements of the rules to the new class. Now let’s see, what should be the model E-2. And first of all will choose the best size and weight. The smaller the model the better, — if only to freely set the engine. But whether it be light or heavy… At first glance, the micro cars of EL-2 is similar to trusovka, however, the conditions of movement are quite different. There are no requirements to the dynamics of acceleration and braking, there is no sustainability requirements on bends — kordovye threads hold the model during a race in the same position. So, to design it as heavy as all kordovye? This is irrational: the ratio of the mass to the power is very large, and the benefits to be derived from the traction wheels with “track” can be much less than the losses on the increased resistance to rotation of wheels and axles in the bearings.
Car class E-2 micro MED-80 and a friction transmission to the drive axle. Polyopia vintage racing automobile.
The car class E-2 micro MED-80 and a friction transmission to the drive axle. Polyopia vintage racing automobile.
Car class E-2 with MPD motor and belt drive to the drive axle. Bearings axle — brass tubing, glued in wooden brackets, front axle suspension. Polyopia sports car.
The car class E-2 with MPD motor and belt drive to the drive axle. Bearings axle — brass tubing, glued in wooden brackets, front axle suspension. Polyopia sports car.
Car class E-2 motor CHDP direct transmission. Polyopia racing car.
The car class E-2 motor CHDP direct transmission. Polyopia racing car.
Therefore, it is possible to recommend this way of designing: creation of the most lightweight machines with the ability to load ballast. Both will be able to link the quality and the diameter of the “tire” with the power of the engine and the condition of the gym floor.
Now about the specific design elements. Better chassis is same for all variants. Valid, of course, the use of supporting rod bodies and frames, but they are much more difficult. The same plywood plate with thickness of 1.5—2 mm will allow you to run the chassis in a matter of hours.
The body can be made of various materials. Cardboard and paper, tin and sheet celluloid or Plexiglas, papier-mâché and thin veneer or “dyblenka” of lime — the choice depends on your taste, possibilities and forms of “prototype”. However, if you haven’t stopped at any of the options, I advise you to try the foam. This material is easiest to create the desired shape with a knife and sandpaper to hollow out the indentations in it much easier than in wood. And surface finish is superimposed a thin, pre-cut paper and aluminum foil will quickly give the desired effect. Will remain a little poshpatlevat some places and the paint ready body. If you used the foam stamps PS (modelers call it white) do not use nitroshpaklevok, nitro lacquer and enamel. They do not affect only the foam stamps PVC (yellow). Completely finished body give small items — lights, handles, moldings, overhead simulators the doors and bumpers and others.
Now the most important on the undercarriage. Let’s start with the wheels. Of course, it is easy to find a ready-made, from broken toys. Some look quite “real”, have a corrugated rubber tires, is securely interlock with the floor. But it is possible that these items have to do yourself, especially if chosen as a prototype for historic car or a modern record with knife-like wheels. Here can help… Dummy, the most common pacifiers! The plastic round washer easy to turn any wheels. The job is simple. Should be cut using the chip razor blades clamped in a ruling pen compass, “tires” sheet of dense or microporous rubber and clamp them between the pairs of washers. During Assembly, all joints promazyvaetsya with glue BF-2 or “Unique”. After compression of the rubber of the Central copper tube raskryvaetsja on both sides, securely holding the strip through the whole set.
Scheme a fractional transmission from the engine to the drive axle
Diagram of a fractional transfer from the engine to the drive axle:
1— chassis, 2— engine, 3— friction roller, a 4 “tire”, 5 — driving axle, 6— bracket.
Pressure of the roller “tire” at the expense of the weight of the model, it is possible to change the gear ratio selection francenigo diameter of the roller.
Self-made stopping device
Homemade stopping device:
1 — us, 2 — switch (brass). 3 — clip (bronze), 4, 6 — screws №2,5. 5 — housing Assembly (wood or plastic)
Central front (mounted on the massive base)
The Central strut (mounted on a massive base):
1 — the wires to the rectifier. 2 — housing (PCB), 8 — slip-ring (copper), And current collecting brush (brass wire, brazing the clamp). 5 — the clamp (brass). 6 — rotating plank (PCB), 7 — bearing 10У22. Cord — wire marks PEL ø 0,5 mm.
Design of a homemade wheel
Design a homemade wheel:
1 — strip. 2 — disc (plastic washer from the pacifier), 3 — rubber tire, 4 — hub, 5 — piston-bearing. And — knife-like wheel, B — wheel-sulker with increased adhesion to the track.
The figures show various embodiments of mounting the wheels and axles to the chassis bearings. Use the one that will seem the best. The main task is to provide easy rotation of the elements. On the assembled model will be checked, not wedges rotating parts of the displacement in the direction of what is possible during a race. Transmission from the engine to the drive axle, of course, if the wheels are not planted directly on the shaft of the motor must also have minimum loss. In most cases it is better to leave a small slippage in the transmission than the brake axis a large side load from the belt tension or pressure of the friction roller.
To reduce the impact of uneven flooring sang, it makes sense to work on soft suspension. One solution is the curly bracket of the front axle plate with a mustache-springs. A stopping device is mounted in the body, condition of the machine goes up (sideways against the rules). As the machine uses a toggle switch with a weak spring, which breaks the supply circuit of the engine, or homemade microtubules.

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