And then one of my friend advised: catamaran! I took his advice and after some time I came home wooden frame, floats, mast, sail.
The assembled catamaran, which was named “the Frog Princess”, predstaleny in figure 2. Manage it quite simple and extremely interesting. The sail area of 4 m2 provides good speed in moderate winds and sufficient security in the barrage. So for passengers not to worry. “Sailors” catamaran, for example, was my five-year-old wife, who suffers from hydrophobia, and nonagenarian father-in-law.
If you decide to build a similar craft, special carpentry and plumbing skills to do this, you do not need. But time, accuracy and diligence will be needed.
Choose high-quality material. Preferred pine: for smooth layers of the wood without knots and low specific weight. With sufficient strength and elasticity. Desirable wood long-term exposure in a dry place. Don’t use raw — it will “lead”, and everything is hopelessly flawed.
FRAME. It is advisable to start with her. The frame consists of four longitudinal beams — stringers and four cross — bimav. Stringers one-piece is too long and inconvenient for transportation, so it is better to do a composite of two parts. The length of the various parts, since the connecting parts are attached podkluchenie, which is convenient for the paddler distance.
Vystrugat carefully, making sure to avoid bias, eight bars section 40×40 mm: four of them (with a length of 1340 mm) are nasal pieces stringers, four (length 1110 mm) — fodder.
Prepare four dural area 40x40x4 mm length 500
For connection of the stringers with the parts you will need 16 bolts M8 length 50 mm with nuts”lambs” metal washers with a diameter of 20 and a thickness of 2.5 mm and rubber cushioning washers 2.5 mm thick, whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the bolt head.
Put the angles on the stringers in the middle of the length of each area must coincide with the intersection of their parts. Vertical shelf corners must be positioned: on the first and third stringers on the left, on the second and fourth on the right.
By the way, the junction portions of each stringer loose with a gap. Without him at the bottom of the junction on the waves will be strongly compressed, and the connecting area can povyryvat bolts. Therefore, at the time of the drilling insert for the formation of gap technology inserts out of plywood with a thickness of 4 mm.
But no matter how you tried to drill a hole exactly does not succeed. Therefore, in order not to confuse the parts of the stringers during subsequent repeated Assembly-disassembly, mark them. If you stand in the stern, on the left, the first stringer. Clearly mark his nose: “H1”, and aft — K1. Second stringer — “D2” and “K2”. And so on. Indicate also the connecting parts of the holes made by the drill: “Oh”, “OO”, “OOO” and “oooo”.
The bolts in the holes must not come tight. On the one hand, noberta wood on the water will swell and during disassembly of the frame holes will inevitably be ruined. On the other hand the bolts are not needed and the extra freedom, loosening the structure.
The bolt broke through the floats, they should “drown” in the body of the stringer. The depth of the nest under the head must equal the sum of the thicknesses of metal and rubber washers and head diameter clear diameter metal washers — 20 mm. the Latter are necessarily
stick to the tree “epoxy” with the force of the screwed bolt. If the nest is a little larger in diameter, the wood under the washer promnetsya and crumble, if less, it will significantly weaken the stringer. No glued washers connection will get loose over one or two seasons, with her frame practically does not wear out.
Vystrugat the beams — four bars section 75×30 mm and a length of 1380 mm. Optimize their weight, Astragal “on us” the ends (Fig. 3). Put the beams on the stringers and also mark: the first from the nose of BIMS on the left, “L1”, to the right of “P1”. The second “L2” and “L2”. And so on. Drill holes are the same as in the stringers.
Make pedroluchini: bow — section 58×24 mm and a length of 1010 mm, the aft section 45×23 mm and a length of 770 mm. Mark them any labels.
Mount podrobno of the beams is simple, but effective (Fig. 4). And it uses common nails. Sincerely treat the nail — it has evolved over centuries. Where red-hot steel or dural pins to burst the plastic nail will stand, at least, will bend.
Of course, given the figures much simplified. Made you give parts some roundness, scuff them a few times and cover with varnish.
Here is everything you need for a frame. If you do it in good faith, strength and durability are guaranteed. Over many years of operation of the “Princess Frog”, for example, none of the wooden detail of the frame is not broken and not even cracked.
The DECK will have plenty of canvas (more suitable one that covers the body of trucks). Deck length shall be equal to the length of the frame plus allowance for pockets fore and aft frames; the width is the distance between the second and third stringer plus allowance for podvorot. Pull up the edge of the coarse thread wide double seam by hand. Bottom-sew a flap of the tarpaulin to form pockets for medium bimav. Cut and sewn bolt holes. When you attach the beams to the stringers, the deck needs to be well stretched. Pedroluchini place on the deck.
LOCKERS are not much different from ordinary boxes. Only required great manufacturing precision, as when transporting the bow locker is inserted into the feed.
The design of the lockers are the same, the materials used are not scarce: plywood with a thickness of 3-4 mm pine slats section 20×15 mm and small screws, epoxy glue, piano loops (for covers-seats).
Dimensions of feed (larger) locker — 800x285x225 mm. Sew from thick fabric cover, to which sew the clasp in the form of loops and buttons-sticks and a wide encircling canvas belt with cross leather straps. To the last attach the straps from a backpack. Cover on the water do not remove. So that was soft to sit on and comfortable to wear, between the lid-seat and cover, place a sheet of foam.
Bow locker must be easily removable from the stern. To do this drill in his sides two holes and insert rope handles-hinges. Cover stitch only cover the seat. Insert the inside a sheet of foam, and the edges sew leather belts for fastening to a locker. The lockers themselves to podrobne screw Cam bolts MB length 45 mm (from household plumbing) with nuts”lambs”.
The OARLOCKS. If you can not find the factory metal oarlocks (plastic no good), then make them yourself out of steel rods with a diameter of 14 and a length of 210 mm. Sawed each rod along the axis to a depth of 70 mm, put on a puck-amplifier and unfold the sawn ends like a stag (Fig. 5). As the axes of swing of the oars use nails with a diameter of 4 and a length of 65 mm. Instead of cotter pins — pieces of lines of graph paper. Seal wrap a cloth cord in epoxy resin.
PODKLUCHENIE (Fig. 6) fabricate from aluminum tubing with a diameter of 22 mm. the Lower ends of their splashlite, laying the inserts in the aluminum plate to a thickness of 7 mm., Hinged (but not freely, with interference) attach them thick rivets to the vertical shelves of the connecting parts of the first and fourth stringers (aft). The same shelves (closer to the nose) in a similar way and attach the struts from aluminum tubing round (020 mm) or oval cross section. The clamps are made of soft aluminum plate (for example, from the back of the children’s sled). In the inoperative position of podkluchenie and struts are folded along the connecting corners.
PADDLE. The device is clear from figure 7. It is advisable to use pipe with a diameter of 40 mm with a smooth surface inside and outside. Such qualities have athletics staves for the high jump.
FLOATS. From what them to do? There is no single recipe, it all depends on who has what available. You can use lightweight double layered material called “silver”, rubberized fabric on cotton or chemical based, tent fabric and even a very sturdy sleeve for pumping air!
My floats with a diameter of 400 and a length of 3600 mm are made of solid shells (the denser fabric of their tent), in which through slits are inserted and then inflated the rubber or plastic balls. Such floats in an inflated state look pretty good.
What are the positive qualities of my chosen design? Light weight and reliability, since many “sections”. Disadvantages? The rough material slides along the bad water, “dragging” her along, why it reduced the speed of the catamaran. And yet it is difficult to adjust evenly inflate the balloons. By the way, the box “negovanka” no good, you need a more powerful pump with integrated pressure gauge.
If you decide to make a similar floats, keep in mind that the real length of the cloth cover must be larger than the nominal 40 mm (allowance for podvoroty), width — 60 mm (seam allowance). When cutting, do not forget that stitched shell should smoothly taper to the ends. So cut in each panel at four bow and aft ogive wedge-shaped with a length of 760 mm (Fig. 8) and stitch a strong thread in several passes, leaving the bow and stern small holes for the rubber tubes from the extreme balls. But first be sure to attach the basting stitches to the inner surfaces of the shells (in the middle of each ball) encircling the dense safety of the tape terminating in ribbons which are then fastened on the stringers. If you do not, in the case of a rupture the balloons will take off like soap bubbles. And so they will remain in their places.
The MAST consists of three sections; upper, lower and middle (Fig. 9). Such a division is convenient in the manufacture, and during transportation.
Main material of mast – pine sticks original cross-section 40×40 mm. From the middle section to save the value of this cross section over the entire length, the lower and the upper gradually reduced to the ends of the mast up to 35×35 mm.
A semicircular chisel cut likas (in the bottom section to about the middle). Prepare strap 14 mm-thick — pads likasi along its length. Obstructe them the same chisel to complete the profiling likasa and attach to the sections of the mast with epoxy and screws. The thus obtained likas carefully apply on the skin, achieving a smooth surface, then sail it would not get stuck and not break. And the whole mast would do well to sanded, giving it a so-called marketability.
The ends of the mast equip a pulley for the mainsail-halyard (a wheel with a groove and the axes taken from the children’s designer), and the lower section have a swivel boom and loop hook wire boom.
In a single unit section of the mast are connected by means of brackets of duralumin angle 25x25x3 mm and M8 bolts. Equip their top of the lower section and the bottom of the top. The ends provide the same average response of reinforcing pads made of duralumin sheet thickness of 1.5 mm, attaching them with small screws. By the way, don’t forget to drill the four holes with a diameter of 8 mm in brackets (in the middle of their speakers shelves) for carbines cables.
Catamaran mast his steps (bottom) is placed into the stand, screwed to podrobno for his locker. Vystrugat base of a pine bar section 65×45 mm (height 45 mm at the ends reduced to 25 mm) and a length of 430 mm. In the middle select bit square recess for the steps. Recess depth is determined empirically: if she’s shallow, when a sharp wind gusts, the mast POPs out easily; if too deep, the mast turns with the root.
BASIC DATA CATAMARAN “THE FROG PRINCESS”
Length, m 3,60…
Width, m…………………………. ….1,60
Diameter of floats, m ……….. … 0,40
The height of the mast, m………………… .4,265
Draught at full load, m:
floats …………………….. 0,14…
the centerboard………………………….. 0,69…
Sail area, m2……………………… ……..4,0
The area of the centerboard and rudder, m2….. ……0,37
The number of passengers, pers……….. …….. 4
Load capacity, kg………… …..360
The maximum weight chassis, kg:
full osnastki…………. …… 60
with incomplete osnastki………. 53
GIK (Fig.10) fabricated on the same technology that the mast: sawed pine bar cross-section 30×30 mm lengthwise into two equal strips. Vystrugat likes and the slot face of the groove. Connect the strips with glue and where you want to locate the boom so as to bring its cross-section 28×28 mm. to Reinforce adhesive joint with screws.
Implement the front end of the boom hinges — steel strips with holes for connection with the swivel boom, located on the mast, and the rear end — steel plates for interfacing with the NOC of the boom (mounting of hinges and plates, small screws, not shown in the figures).
It should be noted that aluminum pin with a diameter of 5 mm, which connects the boom with swivel, needs quite snugly fit into the holes of the hinges and freely in the hole of the swivel.
The NOC (Fig.11) is a detachable continuation of the boom. This forced the division, as a whole, the boom is too long and inconvenient for transportation. Structurally, the knock is similar to a geek, so your actions in his production of the same. The difference is that the NOC is equipped with small metal pulley and wire duck for Shkotovo the end of the sail.
SAIL (Fig. 12) it is best to make, of course, a special sailing of the fabric. But as to get it very difficult, and the price of “bite”, it fit tight TEC-eraser or other durable fabric.
If the width of the fabric roll 700-900 mm, cut from the cloth needed in the middle of the flash fall-joints with 20-mm podvorotni tissue to a future sail kept the form. Cloth lay perpendicular to the rear foot. One of the stitches must pass through galbavy the angle of the sail. Tight edge-cut, otherwise they will “sporite”.
Sew the sail the wide stitches which are on the machine, with a very weak thread tension. At the top of the sail symmetrically attach used to corrupt FS plate of two aluminum plates with a thickness of 1,5 mm (Fig. 13): first, drill a series of small holes along the contour of the two plates together with a sail, and then sew by hand on the holes of a thick thread.
The back part extend, making a “hump” that increases the area of the sail. And that he had some stiffness, tab pockets for lat —long planks that can be made from plywood or school of drawing lines. Armor will not slip out from the pockets, if the latter is to provide a shoelace and tie reef knots. The rear edge of the luff strengthen plus fabric strip.
Fig. 10. Geek:
1 — moulding (steel, strip s1,5); 2 —body of gik (pine); 3 — likes; 4 — hinges (steel, strip s4); 5 — screw.
Fig. 13. Flowy the angle of the sail:
1 — litres; 2 – a sealing litros; 3 — plate palawai; 4 — hole mounting length of the grotto; 5 — hole for the threads of the seam; 6 — string suture; 7 – sail.
Fig. 12. Sail:
1 — lower part; 2 — the angle galbavy; 3,9 — eyelets; 4 — foot front; 5 — plate filova (2); 6 — LVL; 7 — foot rear; 8 — seam; 10 — corner of the sheet.
Fig. 11. Knock gnca:
1 — body knock (pine); 2 — pulley; 3 — holder (steel, strip s1,5 2 PCs.); 4 — duck Shkotovo end (wire Ø5); 5 — likes; 6 — lining (steel, strip s4); 7 — bolts M6; 8 — axis pulley (steel rod Ø3).
Fig. 14. The attachment of the mainsail-halyard to the FA-lovoy plank knot “fishing butt”.
Fig. 15. Steering gear:
1 —rumple (plywood s 10); 2— pin-retainer tiller (pine, rod Ø10); 3,9 — loop swivel (aluminum, angle 25x25x3, 5 PCs); 4 — loop of Carlina (nail Ø3); 5 — front steering (pine, bar 25×25, L520); 6 — fixing unit stretch (2); 7 — stretching (wire Ø3, 2); 8 — axis turning (steel, wire Ø5); 10 — bracket stand (made of anodized aluminum, area 40x40x4); 11 —bolt M6; 12 — frame of the fourth (aft); 13— holder stretching (04 screw with a leather washer, 2 PCs.); 14 — a lining (steel, sheet s2); 15— rudder movable plate (steel, sheet s1,7); 16 — rudder (aluminum, sheet 500×250,s1,5); 17 — shaft of the rudder (pine, bar 40×40, L600); 18 — plate rudder fixed (steel, sheet s1 ,7); 19 — Sorlin; 20 — spacer (steel, sheet s1,7); 21 — bolts M6; 22 — rivet ( Ø5); a — the rudder in the raised position; b — the rudder in depth setting; — holes for mounting the rudder in the deep setting.
Fig. 18. Chertovy bracket:
1 — bracket (aluminum, t); 2 Shay-have-spacer (aluminum, sheet s5); 3 — the axis of rotation of the centerboard (bolt M6); 4 — cheek hinge (aluminum, sheet s5); 5 insert (aluminum, strip s10); 6 — latch (bolt M6); 7 — console centerboard; 8 — emphasis (steel, pin Ø6).
Front and bottom of the foot you cut it curved, so that the sails appeared “belly” and formed the profile, without which the catamaran will not go against the wind. The edges of skinoren finish seams with a width of 15 mm, sew them along the edge of the sail Lectro — thick twisted cotton rope that will be included in likas mast and boom when raising the sail. Lectro passes from the upper end of the luff point throughout its length, then lower the foot and ends at Shkotovo angle. Sewing Lectro, try to tension it and the fabric was the same, and a needle pierced each flagellum rope.
STEERING gear (Fig.15) consists of a tiller, the ball-Leroy and a turning rudder that keep the rack, located in the middle of the fourth (aft) bulkhead. Strut to the frame of the pulled bolt M6 nut-“lamb” through the area, a horizontal shelf is attached to the frame with screws. In addition, the stand has ropes with loops, worn on the holding teli-screws, equipped with thick leather washers that prevent the stretch marks to come off. The top fastening of the wires is clearly shown in the figure.
The shaft is connected to the rudder counter rudder angle by the hinges, through the holes of which are threaded rotatable the long axis of the wire. Each loop is attached by two through bolts MB, under heads which planted the dural plate.
The movable part of the stock of three riveted steel plates with a thickness of 1.7 mm each. If their thickness is less, between them it is necessary to lay sheets of foil to the rudder freely inserted into the groove intended for him.
The rudder is set for shallow and deep water. The second position gives it much greater efficiency. Pen material — duralumin sheet thickness of 1.5 mm.
SVETOVOE DEVICE (Fig. 16) consists of six main components: beam, bracket, stabilizer stretch of the centerboard, the centerboard, and two stretch marks. The last are manufactured from segments of a steel cable with a diameter of 2 mm, pieces of copper tube (swages), and retaining rings.
SORTOVA BEAM (Fig. 17) is based on the internal stringers and fastened to them the third row (counting from the nose of the catamaran) M8 bolts connecting corners. Make it from dural corners 30×30 and 35×35 mm. Especially try propilena notched the stud holes of the suspension bracket svetovogo: they must be accurate.
CHERTOVY BRACKET (Fig. 18) may be a solid, carved from duralumin brand of appropriate size, or composite, riveted from several more simple profiles. Here it does not matter. Importantly, the spikes svetovogo bracket tightly included in their assigned slots sortovoi beams and curved hook securely holds the bracket on the beam.
The STABILIZER of stretch marks (Fig. 19) is a necessary part svetovogo device. It provides equal tension of cables at any position of the centerboard. Then the centerboard resists effectively lateral (side) forces trying to overturn the catamaran to Board. In the lowered position the centerboard tube stabilizer to keep the cables taut, preventing the displacement of the centerboard back with increasing speed (forward does not let it stop) and thereby change the position of the center of lateral resistance of the catamaran.
The design of the stabilizer is simple and needs no special comments.
The CENTERBOARD (Fig.20). For plating most suited duralumin sheet thickness of 2 mm. From such a sheet the centerboard will get heavy, but won’t bother while travelling.
Calculate the size of the sheet based on a profile and angular position of the centerboard. At the bending place of the sheet select a groove round file with a diameter of 5 mm without a handle. Don’t make the groove too deep, otherwise the front edge of the centerboard sharp, which is undesirable according to the laws of aerodynamics; in addition, the formation of cracks. Don’t make the pieces too small, otherwise you will not cope with the shape of the profile, and repeat the fold on this spot would be impossible — the sheet will inevitably crack.
Sklepie “tail” of the centerboard. Secure the centerboard in the clamp with plywood backings and slide the console —duralumin pipe with a diameter of 30 mm (cut track and field pole jumping). It may not reach the bottom of the centerboard. Connect the console and the trim rivets. This can be done with or through long or short rivets. In short rivets and insert them from inside the console in the first hole one of the future riveted seam, then type in the console mandrel — steel water pipe of suitable diameter (it needs to log on to the console tightly!) and asclepia protruding ends of the rivets. Remove the tube and repeat these steps on the other side of the centerboard.
Fig. 19. Stabilizer stretch of the centerboard:
1 — beam (made of anodized aluminum, area 50x30x5); 2 — comb (aluminum, area 60x30x5, 2); 3 — limiter (made of anodized aluminum, steel 16×9, 2); 4 — rivet ( Ø5, 8 PCs.).
Fig. 16. Svetovoe device:
1 — beam vertova; 2 — bracket chertovy; 3 — the stabilizer of stretch marks of the centerboard; 4 — centerboard; 5 — stretching (cable 02, 2); 6 — retaining ring (2); 7 — swage (copper, steel 5×4, 8 PCs.).
Fig. 17. Sortova beam:
1 — beam (made of anodized aluminum, area 35x35x3,5); 2 — retainer (aluminum, angle 30x30x3, 2 pieces); 3 — rivet ( Ø3, 4 PCs.).
Fig. 20. The centerboard:
1 — fairing upper (foam); 2 console (aluminum, steel 30×26,4); 3 — siding (aluminum, sheet s2); 4 — lower fairing (foam); 5 insert (aluminum, plate s5); 6 — rivet, long ( Ø3); 7 — rivet short ( Ø3); 8 — bushing-piston for the lifting brackets lifting centerboard (steel, pipe 8×5).
Fig. 21. The means of attachment of the boom-mainsheet and centerboard:
1 — the third frame (middle view of the nose); 2 — stopper boom-mainsheet (2); 3 — the handle of the stopper; 4 — boom-mainsheet (cord Ø6); 5 — duck mainsail-halyard; 6 — cord lifting centerboard; 7 — bracket sheet (duralumin, area 30×30); 8 — bracket rigging (type 5) centerboard; 9 — the centerboard in raised position; 10 — pin (rod Ø5); 11 — cord safety.
Fig. 22. Removable chassis no.:
1 — shaft wheel (steel, rod Ø14 L530); 2,6 — screws M6 (4 PCs); 3 — a casing of shaft (duralumin, P-profile 20x20x3, L380); 4 — bracket (made of anodized aluminum, angle 40x40x3, 2); 5 — platform (aluminum, sheet 310×70, s2); 7 — belt (canvas, ribbon, 45×3, L850, 2 items); 8 — plate (aluminum plate 30×20, s1,5, 2); 9 — rivet ( Ø4 18 PCs); 10 — bolt M8 fastening locker (2 PCs); 11 — washer ( Ø80, s2, 2); 12 — wheel ( Ø220, 2 PCs.).
Fig. 23. Rotary axis:
1 locker aft (without lid); 2 — plate vertical (steel, plate 225×50, s4); 3 — bracket top (duralumin, area 60x30x4); 4 — screws ( Ø4 4 PCs); 5 — axis rotary (made of anodized aluminum, steel 14×8); 6 — pin; 7 — the bottom bracket (aluminum, angle 30x30x4); 8 — yoke (made of anodized aluminum, pipe 16×20); 9 — “bearing” (winding a thick thread, glued with epoxy resin and lubricated with grease); 10 — the bottom plate (steel plate 120×50, s4); 11 — absorber (leather, washer Ø30×14, s5); 12 — rivet Ø4 with cylindrical head (2); 13 — rivet with Ø4 countersunk screw (2 pieces). Wheel, fastened to the lower end of the rotary axis, conventionally not shown.
Profiled fairings needed in order for the centerboard and shallow and deep-water production was washed optimally. Cut out the fairings from foam, wrap several layers of gauze, impregnated with epoxy resin and put in the centerboard. Please note: between the front edge and the lower fairing there is a small drain hole through which the centerboard is drained from ingested water, since the centerboard for simplicity of design leaking.
With drift boats the centerboard bracket pivotally connected with a few intermediate parts, the design of which is clearly visible in figure 18, therefore, dwell on them will not.
About how the centerboard is fixed in the lowered position shown above. In the raised condition, the centerboard is held by a wooden pin inserted in the hole with the special angled bracket that is attached to the aft face of the third frame (Fig.21). Next to this bracket is also pivotally stoppers geek-SQA-TA and duck mainsail is the halyard.
REMOVABLE CHASSIS (Fig.22) — a very useful attachment to a great (aft) locker. It allows one person to easily carry on a catamaran disassembled. The chassis shown here without details as possible and more simple options. Wheel diameter 220 mm tire width 50 mm from the cargo truck. Of course, these wheels are heavy, but they are safer easy “quilted”, which can fail at the most inopportune moment.
The chassis is a shaft screwed onto the housing (U-shaped profile), giving a fairly long shaft stiffness, and the platform (a rectangle of sheet metal). To last riveted corner brackets and straps. In this form the chassis with two through-bolts M8 nuts-“lambs” is attached to the bottom of the large (aft) storage lockers.
In addition, this locker on the front removable swivel device with a wheel of smaller diameter. Today to get quality swivel device is difficult. The ones that are sold, have a beautiful appearance, but made of soft metal and not designed for heavy loads. So I suggest a schematic drawing of such a device and its mounting to the same point (Fig,23).
But before you put the rotator on the allotted space, the bottom and front wall of the locker strengthen steel plates with a thickness of 4 mm.
In conclusion, a few recommendations.
Basic data catamaran “the Frog Princess”
Length, m ……………………………………………………….3,60
Width, m …………………………………………………….1,60
Diameter of floats, m…………………………………….0,40
The height of the mast, m……………………………………………4,265
Draught at full load, m:
Sail area, m2………………………………………4,0
The area of the centerboard and rudder, m2……………………………0,37
The number of passengers, pers……………………………………..4
Load capacity, kg…………………………………….360
The maximum weight chassis, kg:
with full snap-in…………………………………………60
with incomplete equipment……………………………………..53
Well, if you can divide the construction of the catamaran on three stages. The results of each of them will bring you joy.
The first stage is the manufacture of frames, decks, floats, lockers-seats and paddles. As a result, you quadruple collapsible rowing boat!
The second stage is the accession of the steering gear and a light mast with brifkom — rectangular sail. Now you are a tourist on any river!
And the third stage, the most responsible and hard — fabrication of duralumin profiled centerboard, high durable mast, sewing aerodynamic sails. From this point on you — a full-fledged sailor on the great river, the wide reservoir!
To collect in the road make a list of all parts of the catamaran, grouped by transportable. If it is not, run the risk of not riding back. Especially pay attention to detail. Allocate bolts and pins in sets in separate packages and put it all in a bag.
Large parts of the beams and stringers — communicate four, wrap in a canvas deck and fasten the two straps with bamboo handle. There svetovoy and remove the beam in “stocking”. Metal corners — in cozies. Of the mast and aft pedroluchini put metal ends on one side, fastened with three straps placed under their fanerok, so that nothing was hanging out, and fold in the narrow case metal forward. There also put the oars and handles of the oars, inserted into one another. All the rest of the pack at its own discretion, is only a tool, medical kit, spare parts, knife and money should always be at hand.
In the large (aft) locker insert small (fore), it fold up camping equipment. Catamaran disassembled and put in the locker. All cargo of “place” must be in a certain order, covered with blankets, strapped straps with bamboo handles and firmly fastened surrounding belts. Tie on top of the centerboard in the case with cables, comes in a canvas “pants”, the case with the connecting parts of the stabilizer and the stretch marks and the rest of the trifle. Lord of the journey backpack, why drag it on? Did you forget anything? Go!
Upon arrival, the Assembly of the catamaran start from the frame by inserting the beams into the pockets of the deck. Nuts-“wing” screw is not very tight — spare the tree.
Don’t forget that overly inflated floats worse than damp the wave on the Board, do not increase load capacity and can burst when the sun “wish” to increase their volume.
At first the Assembly and disassembly of the catamaran will take you a lot of time. Don’t despair! I’m single now do this job in three hours.
Going on a trip, remember that the man in the water weaker cats and for pleasure have to pay the strict observance of safety rules on the water. Catamaran is a strong and reliable craft, but only when it is properly assembled. The catamaran float, not attached to the inner stringer, shaking the hapless team on the water and float, not attached to Board, can do overkill and cover her all his weight. Therefore, children and non-swimmers adult mandatory life jackets, an inflatable two-piece better. Also needed on Board and a life preserver.
To competently manage sails, read relevant literature and acquire practical skills. Weather conditions on the water changed quite often and dramatically, and in a short time. Remember that with increasing wind speed, for example, three times the aerodynamic force of the sail increases nine times! And while these skills no learn, if anything, to quickly lower the sail and go to the paddles, they are powerful — their arm close to the lever of the paddle racing boats.
In recent years, discipline on the water is much tougher, and each participant water movement requires good behavior. Therefore, never “cross” the road in front of large vessels. A passenger boat goes much faster than you think, and you, on the contrary, much slower than expected. By the way, for access to a large navigable river must pass inspection and get a ship’s ticket.
And the last one. To love boating, you need a certain temperament. Things do not always happen well: you’ll be making in weather forecasting, it does not calculate the speed of the flow or the strength and direction of the wind. In addition, the cards often there are serious errors in the mileage, not marked as weirs and sluices. In this regard, many prefer uncharted route quiet walk in the Park, and in the evening a warm bath, but they never will experience those experiences that fall to the share of tourist-Vodnik.
So when it’s quiet and catamaran silently glides on the water surface, the soul is filled with amazing feelings. Those that encourage Italian gondoliere to sing, and Schubert was inspired to create a Barcarolle is one of the pinnacles of world musical art.
But the wind increases sharply, and the blackened water appear foamy “wing”. The catamaran, however, continues its steady run through the waves. You feel that confidence, it’s passed to you, fueling the excitement of the struggle and the joy of victory over the elements.
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