FOR EVERY TASTE AND AGE!

FOR EVERY TASTE AND AGE!

Cyclist with experience or cyclists are hard to convince that there is a treadle machine better than “Tourist”, “Sports”, “Satellite”. For many years I preferred legkodelimae bike over all the others. However, with the advent of folding machines became obvious advantage during transportation and storage. But, unfortunately, it turned out that the effort that is required to make when moving they are more relevant to bicycles.
Why is them so hard to ride? To answer this question, I assembled two bikes on the basis of the folding frame from “Salute”. One was with the wheel from the “Sports” different from “Salute”, but with inserted grommet from the rear “Sport”. Almost all the rest of the details in both were from legkodimova bike.
 
After comparative tests in one season bike with big wheels were dismantled, as in all respects, including ride quality on the highway with the wheels from the “Salute” was superior to it (and even standard legkomotorny “Sports”).
 
Therefore, the blame for poor ride qualities of a folding bike was the brake bushing. It is generally “filled” disadvantages: difficult to manufacture and operate, provides quick braking, but it stubbornly continues to put on the road, folding and juvenile bikes.
 
Due to the smaller (80 mm) diameter wheels “salute” more maneuverable, and thanks to a lower centre of gravity and more stable; upgraded with the shifter and the rear bushing from the “Sports” takes the ease of travel and becomes vosmichastny. To ride it is much nicer than on a bike with big wheels. And it is in a new form very aesthetically pleasing, as it is all reasonable and logical. This bike could produce our industry, because all its parts are factory, and the front and rear brakes you can use brake tick from “Salute”, “Kama”, etc. Such an option would have enjoyed the greatest demand: and road car and a pleasure, and children, and ladies, and even foldable — for every taste and age!..
Then I wanted to put on it yet and the engine, but not necessarily while maintaining the ability to go from “idle” like on a conventional bike. Naturally, the car had to stay and foldable. Deciding to put the engine on the updated “salute”, I started with the development of velaatta able to disable the driven sprockets of a chain drive of the engine from wheels of the Bicycle. Its mission is to provide rigid engagement with a driven sprocket wheel without freewheel (to start the engine on the fly) and release at any time during the movement. This clutch — I call it “the octopus” — was made. Operation over several years has confirmed correctness of the solution — it was workable and reliable.
 
On the coupling of the issued copyright certificate № 1243970 A1, B60 K17/02.
 
Figure 1 shows the Assembly drawing of the clutch with a dural sleeve with cheeks Ø 75 mm, figure 2 — coupling parts in order of Assembly with the same sleeve, figure 3 — figure variant of the fastening flange to the steel sleeve legkodimova bike.
 
Fig. 1. Clutch (complete).
Fig. 1. Clutch (complete):
1 — Bush bike, 2 — notched flange, 3 — screw with nut M5, 4 — coil Ø 1,5 mm, 5 — sprocket Z = 28, 6 — the bearing № 107 with a gasket, 7 — Cup, 8 — thrust bearing No. 8107, 9 — ring bearing No. 8107, 10 — bearing No. 200, 11 — nut.
 
Fig. 2. Details of the clutch and drive it.
Fig. 2. Details of the clutch and drive it:
1 — sleeve rear bike wheel, 2 — notched flange, 3 — screw with nut M5, 4 — helical spring 5 — star, 6 — bearing with gasket, 7 — Cup, 8 — thrust bearing 9 — thrust bearing 10 — plug-lever 11 — end cable, 12 — die.
 
Fig. 3. Option mounting flange to the steel sleeve on the threads.
Fig. 3. Option mounting flange to the steel sleeve, on the thread:
1 — flange, 2 — sleeve 3 — M4 screw with nut 4 — nut 5 — bearing number 200.
 
The clutch comprises a notched flange, mounted on the left (facing) side of the rear hub with wide cheeks from racing bike. The flange fastened to the cheeks of Bush by nine screws. On it is mounted a spring having a taper profile. This is done to ensure that at full compression of the spring, its thickness was not more than the thickness of one turn (1.5 mm). One end (with the smaller diameter coils) coil spring abuts the inner ring of the bearing moves freely along the axis of the flange.
 
On the outer ring of the bearing is worn the detail of the spin Cup, which is attached to the driven sprocket. Bearing with it is moved along the axis of the flange with a fork lever whose axis is mounted on the die is mounted on the wheel axle from the outer side of the pen the rear fork of the Bicycle. Control lever-fork through the cable to the handlebar of the Bicycle.
 
The thrust bearing No. 8107 and the bearing ring serve to reduce friction between the fork arm and the inner ring of the bearing No. 107, significantly when driving with the engine shut off, if the spring is hard enough. If she adjusted to the light buoyancy driven sprocket with the main bearing, the thrust bearing is not required and the height of the notched flange can be reduced to 6 mm.
 
When you move the main bearing along the flange sprocket in the sprocket holes are lugs notched flange, rigidly attached to the wheel. Is engaged with the sprocket wheel, the chain drive from the engine starts to rotate (clutch the engine should be turned off, the lever grip is pressed). Releasing the clutch lever of the engine and continuing to rotate the pedals, we thereby ignite the engine of a motorbike.
 
The clutch in case of using it with a steel bushing from the “Sport” has a way of fastening the notched flange of the PA sleeve (Fig. 3): in it and on the protruding part of the sleeve is cut on a lathe left-hand thread. After screwing flange (with effort) it is further mounted to the cheeks of the sleeve with three M4 screws.
 
The driven sprocket Z = 28 from the “Sport” connected with the Cup by six steel rivets Ø 4 mm. Pre-annealing of stars in its Central part where the holes are drilled the rivets iodine, is released by using a blowtorch (bring a picture of a tint to the sprocket teeth), and slotted lugs are worn down. Then the sprocket is centered in the bearing for marking the mounting holes using a conductor in the form of a cylindrical stepped sleeve with two outer diameters: 35 and 42 mm. Height of each step of 5-10 mm.
 
The bearing grinds on the grinding machine or, in extreme cases, a sanding disc to the separator, i.e. up to 10 mm Between the outer cage of the main bearing and the asterisk is placed a gasket of sheet 0.3—0.5 mm. It is needed in order that the separator and the inner race of the bearing does not touch the sprocket.
 
In this embodiment, the applied bearing No. 107. In the case of using bearing number 7 000 107 also ground off before the separator, the design will be even thinner. Bearing No. 200 serves to prevent deformation of the rear axle.
 
Figure 4 shows the clamp for the front mounting studs of the engine to the frame (the handle for carrying the bike), and figure 5 shows the bracket for the rear studs of the engine to the seat frame.
 
Fig. 4. The clip on the front studs of the engine to the frame of the
Fig. 4. The clip on the front studs of the engine to the frame of the “Salute”.
 
Fig. 5. Bracket rear mounting studs of the motor
Fig. 5. Bracket rear mounting studs of the motor “salute” and “Kama”.
The frame to the rear studs of the motor must be crushed from the sides by means of the metalwork hammer as a seat of a motor designed for 28 mm and the diameter of the frame “Salute” 34 mm. space for the nuts are milled to a plane under them perpendicular to the studs, they are screwed.
 
Bent to 90° to the shank of the same part is attached with screw M5 block of two rollers of switch gears. On the same screw to fasten the round spring wire Ø 2 mm, one free end abutting the seat frame; the other, with a loop on the end, put on the roller axis, to transmit spring pressure to the lower part of the chain for its tension.
 
The upper part of the chain pulls the same spring-loaded rollers mounted on the pen seat the rear fork with bracket and strap (Fig. 6).
 
Fig. 6. Bracket and strap mounting the rollers of the tension on the pen the back of a fork.
Fig. 6. Bracket and strap mounting the rollers of the tension on the feather the rear of the plug.
 
The rear plug should be slightly spread apart to the size of the new bushing. To do this, the welded panel between the saddle feathers are cut in the center and feathers plug apart to the required value by applying a small effort. To the cut parts of the old pads new screws — for mounting the rear brakes and increase the rigidity of the fork. To chain pedal drive and the drive from the motor does not touch the feathers of the rear fork, they must bend to the outside using a screw Jack by inserting in place of mounting the rear hub stud nuts or just the rear axle with nuts to limit travel. The amount of camber of the feathers of the rear fork can be identified by the place after installing the drive chain from the motor and pedal drive.
 
For those who want to collect the motorbike at the base of the frame from “Kama”, is a sketch of the mounting bracket of the front studs of the engine (pre-clipped in half, as shown in Fig. 7). The mounting of the rear studs of the engine is the same as to the frame “Salute”. The bottom bracket axle with the help of her cones maximally shifted to the left, to the connecting rod of the left pedal in the upper position do not touch the engine. Pedals it is advisable to use short, from a sports bike.
 
Fig. 7. The mounting bracket of the front studs of the engine to the frame
Fig. 7. The mounting bracket of the front studs of the engine to the frame “Kama”.
 
Some useful tips for those who want to collect this or similar motorbike.
 
1. Before you touch the wheel under the other sleeve and if not as a sample of the other assembled wheel, carefully examine the location of the spokes and write the intervals that are on the rim of two adjacent spokes on the hub. First, collect the needles, which devuda in the cheeks bushings with external parties, and only then collect the rest of the spokes.
 
Then secure the axle bushing to the rear fork, clamped in a vise, and evenly tightening spoke nuts, get rid of the eccentricity of the wheel (“egg”) and then by beating (“eight”).
 
2. Generally it is better to take the rim from “Salute”, with the spokes from the motorbike ZIF-77. If you have a frame from “Kama”, that is the wheel from the “Gums”, with Nickel-plated steel rims. Don’t forget that the rear rim needs to have 36 holes, and the front 36 or 32 depending on what kind of front bushing you apply.
 
3. In the present design uses the leverage of the speed selector from “Sport”: they are designed for installation on the steering column and have rests for the outer sheath of the Bowden. A common speed selector lever can be put on the steering column using the pads (Fig. 8) that contains a stop for the sheath of the cable (thus made the gear shift lever of a clutch).
 
Fig. 8. Trim mounting on handlebar clutch lever.
Fig. 8. Trim mounting on handlebar clutch lever.
 
Fig. 9. A hook fastening back of the switch.
Fig. 9. A hook fastening back of the switch.
 
4. To pedal chain drive came off the drive sprocket, you must do the following: to remove the backlash of the axis of the carriage; to get rid of the wobbling sprocket, straighten it on a flat metal surface; the end surface of each tooth of the drive sprocket to sharpen with a file to the sharp edge and then for a smooth transition a little grind her from the working surface of the tooth.
 
5. To save fuel, due to more complete combustion, the crown air filter carb wearing a conical nozzle (plastic Cup from jar) hole to meet the air flow: it will create excess air pressure while driving.
 
6. To decrease the volume of the exhaust chamber muffler invested in rolled up tight fiberglass, do not interfere with the exhaust.
 
7. Instead of candles you bought in the kit with the engine, place a candle А17В 0-3, improves the combustion of the fuel.
 
8. The throttle of a motor scooter is mounted on steel handlebar Ø 22 mm without any modifications. In the case of dural handlebar Ø 24 mm or legkodimova from a racing Bicycle handle of the gas controller must be disassembled, removed from the regulator is a cylindrical part with a longitudinal groove, make a groove on the steering wheel of the steering wheel and collect the gas controller on the steering wheel the helm, using it instead of the confiscated parts.
 
9. This design used gas tank and muffler from the kit to the engine D-5. The tank is mounted vertically behind the saddle. It is modified: the neck with a tube welded to its end face to increase the usable volume.
 
The muffler is attached to the bottom part by means of a square screw flip stop. The pipe of the muffler is unfolded a bit in place after heating it with a blowtorch to a temperature of red heat.
 
10. Electrical equipment includes front and rear (flashing, red) lights. The first is secured by a clamp under the front trunk. Button enable (switch МП1-1) is derived on the wheel. Two elements of the type 373 of this lamp is powered (one wire through the toggle switch, also appears on drive) rear light bulb lamp with flasher. The electrical circuit flashers are assembled in the housing of the tail light (Fig. 10). On the wheel displayed also button engine connecting the primary winding of the magneto with ground.
Fig. 10. The electric circuit of the tail light-emergency lights.
Fig. 10. The electric circuit of the tail light-emergency lights.
 
11. As drive chain of the motor, put the old stretched chain. If not, keep in mind that a new chain is pulled quickly and after the first visits should be shortened by two links.
 
12. The weight of the motorbike about 30 kg, and the speed can greatly exceed the permissible rules for a given class of cars is 40 km/h. Therefore, for safety reasons without special needs don’t try to overtake mopeds, mokiki and other urban transport.
 
Not to mention that at this motorbike is very nice to drive and with the engine off. The course has a slight center of gravity is low, acceleration is slower, but better reel.
 
It is hoped that such motorbikes will be interested in the industry, and to replace the crackling mopeds will come universal folding motorbike, which is equally convenient to ride on the highway with the engine, and a quiet Park without an engine, and the yard, as on a conventional bike.
 
K. SHITIKOV

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