HELMET INTEGRAL DO

To have a nice helmet you want to each the rider and the stages, and the requirements of the traffic police should be strictly observed. Popular hats-integrals produced by the industry, are in stores extremely rare, and the price is not small. But it turned out that to make “branded” integral and ourselves: we, a group of motor-fans, for several years, using the improvised helmets.

The first question facing us is what to do chump. After going through many different options come to a decision is to be based on the ordinary open helmet. The only condition is that the surface was as flat as possible. Then from clay (preferably of solid, artistic) molded front part of a future boob.

 

During operation, the symmetry of the front of the plasticine is easily controlled with a few cardboard templates. Before you connect the helmet and the clay part, to create the stiffness of the whole structure of foam with a thickness of 15-20 mm of the cut ellipse, the lower section of the helmet. Then all three parts are connected by clay, and the “seams” on the outside surface carefully trimmed: the more carefully such development, then the less processing the finished shell of the helmet. After smoothing the clay pieces covered with a layer of nitrocellulose lacquer SC-228 or SC-584: this will facilitate the ready separation of the shell.

 

The technology of manufacturing the conventional matrix. On the entire surface of the dummy before pasting apply separation layer mastic — a paste wax “Edelvays” used for polishing of parquet floors. When it dries, the coating should be polished. Then we set the dividing ridge of clay and molding one half of the matrix. After curing of the resin, the comb is removed, they formed the collar will also cover wax and molding the second half. Again allow the resin to cure and removing the halves of the matrix drill in both edge ribs holes with a diameter of 4 mm and pitch of 50 mm for installation of clamping screws. Then gently remove the matrix with blockhead, who, being washed from paste wax and dismantled again becomes a normal helmet.

Fig. 1. Design nerd:

1 — helmet, 2 — clay part.

 

Fig. 2. Making matrix:

1 — jackass 2 — the dividing ridge.

 

Fig. 3. Buckle.

 

Now that we have the matrix, you are ready to vitlake the future of the shell of the helmet. Before forming is necessary to prepare the fiberglass. It is better to cut in the form of a Crescent, and triangular pieces in place, but you and “wipes” 100X100 mm.

 

After collecting a matrix on the inner surface of the applied layer of paste wax and’re gonna Polish. After that go to the forming shell. Prepare a large amount of resin immediately is not recommended, you simply will not have time to use it. The optimal amount of 200-250 g; then the resin is prepared in the course of work. To work better together. One impregnates the fiberglass pieces, the other placed in the matrix and privorovyvat them with the hard end of the brush. The quality of molding depends on the look of the finished product. Special attention should be paid to the first layer. To obtain the required stiffness (thickness 3-4 mm) to be put in a matrix 4-5 layers of fiberglass (depending on its thickness).

 

Vileika one shell is required: epoxy resin ED-5, ED-6 (glue EAF) — 1,5 l; fiberglass — canvas size 500X1500 mm.

 

In a day or two, after full curing of the resin matrix to disassemble and carefully shared halves (in case of difficulty in the gap between the matrix and the shell you can insert wooden wedges and pour the hot water). Then with a hacksaw and a file flatten the contours of the shell and move on to the putty small surface defects. It is better to do in stages, in intervals of a polishing cloth with water or kerosene (epoxy dust is very harmful). Having a high quality surface, mark and drill the lower contour of the helmet a series of holes with a diameter of 2-2,5 mm and 10-20 mm step because you’ll need them for attaching the lining.

Samples of manufactured helmets.

 

Fig. 4. The bracket strap.

 

Fig. 5. The location of the holes on the shell.

 

Fig. 6. Pattern lining.

 

Fig. 7. Design of belts:

1 — bracket, 2 — strap, 3 — buckle.

 

A few words about the manufacture of safety glass. We tested two options: celluloid and organic glass with a thickness of 1,5—4 mm. the options were better. To mark the contours of the workpiece easiest template out of graph paper. Then on the future site of the glass on the helmet is curved strip of sheet metal (slouchy contour by 8-10 mm) and provorachivaetsya to it with two screws through the existing holes. Now the glass workpiece is heated over the gas stove and pressed tightly against a tin matrix. After complete cooling, the glass is ready.

 

Fig. 8. Pattern protective glass.

It is attached to the helmet with two screws M5 with beautiful, preferably a chrome head. Between the glass and the helmet padded Teflon or nylon washers. To prevent the loosening of screws, use washers Grover.

 

The final operation — painting. It is best done outdoors. The color should be chosen bright, visible from afar. When using two colors, we recommend taking the following combination: red and white, yellow and black, white and blue, silver and blue.

 

For belts will fit a nylon tape with a width of 20-25 mm, preferably dark. Construction fasteners we have borrowed from the “M-K” № 1, 1981.

 

The lining is made of dark Bologna or of silk lining. She cut out and sewn in the shape of a cap. Inside the helmet are first stacked and glued strips of foam with a thickness of 30-35 mm and a width of 70 mm, then insert and sew the lining at the lower edge. Around the perimeter of the front of the helmet lining is glued with glue “Moment”. On the edge of the helmet worn U-shaped rubber profile used to install window glass.

 

A. VOYNICH