Now the operation I performed would be different. Would need to make one slot the depth of 60 — 70 mm. Inside insert wedges fit so as not to leave Islamite core. Sides to fasten around the perimeter with bolts to any external anchor frame. To catch the deleted inner ring core cable and a “tractor” to tear out everything inside the loop with a core and several layers of the base-frame at one time.
Further processing outside of the tyre. It is necessary to cut off the excess rubber. For this purpose it is desirable first to examine thickness welded to the sidewall rubber, piercing it with an awl to thread: heard the characteristic sound zatepleny thread. Then it is necessary to collect the wheel and pump up the camera so it is easier to cut. The side panel I cut almost to the threads of the knife 50 mm width, on the right side which had an l-shaped limiter depth of cut. The knife is inserted into the puncher with soft battle, otherwise the tool can not tolerate long — crumbles. The location of the cut on the lid watered with water for lubrication. The left part of the knife goes on top of rubber and the right zarekaysya to focus on 4 to 6 mm. And so several passes around the circle from the bead to the tread and sidewall bald. The knife needs to be sharpened rough, jagged: well, he better cut (or saws).
The device for peel-off rings of the core and the inner part of the bead:
a) General view (located near the separated layers of the tyre; b) in the working position (in the slit between the layers are inserted so far, only one wedge)
Tool “planer” for cutting tread grooves in the tyre lightweight:
a) General view; b) in the working position
On a treadmill, you should decide the height of the protector over the threads. Flat knife with a chisel blade width 80 — 120 mm from side to the middle across the tire from each side cut off the extra rubber, placing a template-the emphasis under the knife in the existing recesses of the tread. The template is made of aluminum wire and the desired variable thickness, arching pattern of the groove. Because the knife is flat, and the focusing pattern is wide, it is necessary to add 3 to 4 mm high, as the tire torus and will cut more than expected. All 98 of lugs on the lid cut off for two hours.
A hammer drill I had with a hard kick (electromatic) and crumbled knives, for cutting the cleats in the form of “Christmas trees” produced a device like a plane.
The “plane” consists of a rod made of a reinforcing rod-a rod diameter of 20 mm and a length of about 400 mm with welded thereto with one end of the square steel tube 20×20 mm and a length of about 200 mm, to which the back bottom is welded to the knife in the form of staples with a width of about 10 mm. Height of the knife — the depth of the newly cut tread.
Before cutting the grooves on a treadmill tires with chalk to mark up two or three “Christmas trees”, pour with water. This operation is best performed together with an assistant — one holds and guides the plane, the second hits the end of the rod with a sledgehammer. One blow breaks 10 — 30 mm (depends on the force of impact and skill working). 98 grooves struck for five hours, and one hour spent on cutting the tails with the G-shaped knife. My plane suffered seven wheels and survived, however, the knife burst five times in the welding seam and had him again podaryat.
That’s, like, all. The roughing one bus took eighteen hours, not counting the manufacture of tools. The work is heavy and more than three hours a day I missed.
The camera comes a little less tire for ease of installation. When pumped up to a pressure of 0.15 — 0.2 of the atmosphere, it sticks to the lid. At a lower pressure during the movement of the camera can slip in the tire, and the tire on the wheel rim
To insure against slippage of the tire on the rim at low pressure in the chamber, the rim of the disk on the shelf did on the perimeter of the six protrusions 4 mm from the metal strip 20 mm width, and on Board tyre — corresponding indentations (teeth), nothing cranks.
About the wheels. Because “krutovskoe” wheel (disc / rim) due to its large mass in the all-terrain vehicle use is inappropriate, it had to be made of “Zhiguli”.
To the rim “the Zhiguli” the wheels on both sides dovaren two conical surfaces of metal 2,5 — 3 mm. are welded To the cones half motorcycle rims (landing shelf with side edges). And such wheel is hold lightweight of the tire and the load on them.
Someone pattern cones seem a daunting task. But it is possible and the textbook to open. Draw on a sheet a cross section of your future wheels (cone it will look in the form of a straight line between the motor flange and the rim “Zhiguli” wheels). Extend the line to the intersection with the axis of the wheel. The point of intersection will be the center of the radii of the sector pattern of a truncated cone.
Then you should measure the circumference of the planting shelves motorcycle rim (or calculate it by the diameter of the rim), to measure the same length along the outer arc of the cone. The same need to produce rim “Zhiguli” wheels and to measure the obtained value in the inner arc.
The pattern of a cone to save a sheet of iron it is better to break into two parts. To cut (cut with jigsaw) I with a 5 mm stock to length, weld the halves back to back, bend over his knee for connection of ends.
Motorcycle rim it is necessary to cut with a grinder right in the holes of the spokes, leaving a vertical shelf (rim) for rigidity. Put the cut edge on a sheet of chipboard (DSP) and fill nails at the outer circumference. Continue to impose on him the corresponding cone side and cover with a sheet of “chipboard” and pull the center bolt. Having achieved with a hammer and tape measure parallel plates (runout up to 10 mm can be considered the norm), to weld the shelf to the cone 40 mm stitches with different directions to not lead.
Aligning the height of the teeth protector flat chisel pattern
Wheel rim for lightweight low tire pressure:
1 — “the Zhiguli” wheel (disc and rim); 2 — the extension rim in the shape of a truncated cone (steel sheet s2.5 — 3, 2); 3 — rim Obol (from wheels of a motorcycle “Ural”, 2 PCs.)
Some advice on choosing tires and wheels on the basis of the local road (or rather off-road) conditions of the forthcoming operation. Our terms: forest, Bush, moss, thawed frozen soil half a meter deep, mountain river, loose snow in winter, ruts roads that generally are in the only place where you can drive. I recommend to choose the outer diameter (the diameter of the rolling) wheel tire to provide clearance under the car 350 — 400 mm: approximately the same as that of the truck “Ural”. Over high obstacles you can avoid. Gauge wheels would be a good idea to do “Orlovsky”, otherwise you can collect everything that does not break down these all-terrain vehicles. Tyre pressure for movement on the moss — 0,15 — 0,25 of the atmosphere, on the road — 0,35 — 0,55. Do not chase the tire width of wheel: snow when lack of power they are worse than narrow, also reduce the usable area of the car and harder to manage.
The machine it is desirable to design so that the cabin was in the front (it greatly improves the overview), and the wheels of the front axle were at the front of the envelope — then they will put Bush under the car. While crossing a mountain stream is preferable to the car was sinking and clung to the wheels at the bottom than swimming. In the tundra region of swamps and lakes — possible other requirements.
Rode lightweight tires five years, including in the woods and never tires was pierced. If you compare these homemade tires with brand imported or domestic industrial “trakiyski”, we have in Yakutia, they are often pierced, even on public roads.
I. ABRAMOV, p. Ust-Nera, Yakutia
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