THE DRILL-THE DRILL

Few of the tinkerers complete today without an electric drill. Due to the different types of bits manufactured by the industry, this tool is skilled in runes becomes truly universal, turning it into a circular saw, grindstone, grinding machine… However, not all the features of the drill have already been implemented. For example, it took me to do hidden wiring, and for this we need to “chew” in concrete and wood deep grooves. There’s even a drill with pobeditovym tip proved to be ineffective. Then was born the idea to make a special mortising attachment — to turn the drill into a mini drill.

But how to convert a rotational motion of the output shaft of the drill to reciprocating move the gouge or chisel? Upon reflection, I decided to create a shock wave to use balls made from conventional bearing.

 

The principle of operation of the nozzle is as follows. On the shaft of the electric drill rotates the firing pin, with sockets four-ball Ø 4,5 mm. From the return part bumper also has four similar ball, but he does not rotate the notched cutout of the guide flange. Therefore, at the moment of impact of the balls bump sharply moves forward; back it returns a specially installed spring. The progress of the bump is determined by what are the balls from the sockets; my fit — 3 mm. After planting bulbs, so they don’t fall out, the edges of the nests should resciniti.

The nozzle is mounted by using a collet, clamp screwed onto the housing nut. The neck of the domestic electric drills have the same Ø 37 mm, so the device is suitable to any of them. To install a working tool in the hammer has a hole Ø 9 mm and a depth of 45 mm and the bolt-lock.

 

Fig. 1. Nozzle to electric drill IE-1032:

1 — drill, 2 — nut, collet, 3 — hull tips, 4 — hammer, 5 — baffle, 6 — return spring, 7 — M5 screw (2 PCs.), 8 — a guide flange, 9 — bolt clamp, 10 — shank replacement tool.

 

Fig. 2. The scheme of installation of balls in the nest.

 

Fig. 3. Possible options for replacement of the working tool:

A — to work on the wood (chisel, chisel), B — for cutting metal (chisel), — for the latter, G — plumbing work (file), D — for chipping brick or concrete using a sweep or tap, E — for cutting solid material using a welded-ray heads, Well — chiselling-drilling of the bricks (concrete) without the guide flange.

Briefly about the materials. The body of the nozzle, the nut, the guide flange are made of steel. But the bump and drummer preferably grind of steel having a hardness after heat treatment of LDCs 50-55.

 

With the help of this device I easily knocked the grooves in the walls, and the difference when working with a brick and concrete almost not felt. However, it turned out that the nozzle is able to perform other operations. Made me a set of replacement tool is allowed to cut the metal, treat surface, to carry out the riveting. Work with a drill easier, as now it can be held with both hands — the handle and the body of the nozzle. And one more feature: this design allows you to combine rotational movement with strike on occurring in the processed material obstacles. This guide flange of the nozzle is removed, and a special working tool (POS. W, in Fig. 3) rotates, buried in, say, a brick wall. For as soon as he hits solid inclusion, rotation is stopped and its movement is reciprocating, allowing destroy obstacles.

 

And in conclusion, about plans to improve fit. The progress of the bump to 3 mm causes noticeable load on the motor of the drill, so I intend to reduce this amount to 1-1,5 mm at the expense of deeper planting bulbs in the sockets. This should increase the lifetime of the tool without reducing its performance.

 

V. KALININ, Leningrad