OPEN SESAME

It is paradoxical but true: we actively care about the condition of the walls of his apartment, much less pay attention to the most loaded elements of the house — ka doors and Windows. Perhaps that will drip oil ka loop once or twice a year so as not to creak, Yes, go paint on plasty and panels. But time goes on and the door begins to scrape on the floor, warps, between it and the frame cracks are formed. And one day you come home and can’t get to the apartment: the door is jammed. It is time to remember the ways of hacking described in the recently read the detective, or in a vain effort to shout “open sesame!”.

Structurally, the door block consists of boxes, frames, covering her and the door. Window unit to the box with the trim added to the window sill, and wooden frames inserted glasses. In the language of designers and builders all 370 is called joinery. Often it gives the greatest trouble with self-repair apartments.

 

R and S. 1. A screw with a blunt thread namnoy (a) and acute (b)

 

Ramen woodwork do not know the details, so we’ll talk more about them.

 

SCREWS. Depends on the quality of the sample door, and not suitable for everyones. For example, they are countersunk, oval, truss. For our purposes, fit only the first: they wrapped in wood zapodlitso with a detail surface. These screws are mainly used for fixing not only loops, but mortise locks and accessories: handles, latches, linings. Length typically ranges from 7 to 120 mm, thickness from 1,6 to 10 mm; we will approach the fixture with a thickness of 4-5 mm and a length of not less than 30 mm vents respectively — 3.5 mm to 26 mm.

 

Fig. 2. Types of loops: all-in-one “fortochka” (a), polusharnirnye (b, d), with removable rod (in)

 

When selecting screws please note the thread. Its edge must be sharp; it cuts into the wood, and the screw is held very firmly. And stupid thread is only slightly crush the fibers, and the details are recorded in such a screw, will live in their places for long.

 

LOOP. Each loop consists of two plates maps to the hinge. They are connected by the axle-rod. It can be sealed and both the cards, making a loop all-in-one, is zavalova in one card or shrinked so that but if necessary it can be removed from the hinge. Disposable loops are used only for vents or small light frames and polusharnirnye used for hanging door and window frames, as they give the opportunity to remove them for adjustment or repair. The designs with detachable studs are put where the frame or the door panel when removing it is impossible to lift.

 

 

Loops select for the thickness of the door leaf, the sash frames, transoms or Windows. The width of the card is standardized: 30— 45 mm, 30-35 mm and 18-20 mm. Usually they provide a razzenkovkoj othersto under screws so that the heads were and the same plane with the map or into it: this ensures a tight closure of the loop.

 

PRIREZKA OF LOOPS. Each loop is installed and selected under it and the wood to the thickness of the card right angle plug — it’s called prirezkoj. Card loops must be strictly a one plane and a quarter of the box of the door or frame, or when closing loops can pull out the screws or loosen them.

 

 

When the cards protrude slightly above the plane of wood, it is easy to fix by cutting away the corresponding layer and nests under loops. If it fit, on the contrary, too deep, and the nest beneath the cards you need to put fanerku or thick cardboard.

 

THE STRENGTHENING OF THE BOXES. Most often they are loose in front of the doors. In wooden buildings the stocks holding up fairly well, but a modern stone all depends on how well they were placed during construction.

 

Door unit it is recommended to mount at three points along the height as the one on the other side.

 

 

It should be recalled that with the complete replacement of the door or frame them to hang so that when installed in place between them and the quarters of the boxes remained gaps and 2-2,5 mm stock on layer of paint. One of the mounts — on the level of one meter from the level of priest or threshold; the other two at a distance of 250-390 mm from the top and bottom. Under them in wall openings, drill a hole, hammer in wooden stoppers, set box and through the sides hammered into the tube long nails, utaplivaja them hats and wood.

 

If necessary, repair the box, first recommended to remove the trim and check if it fits tightly

 

Fig. 8. Repair brusnev norbni for NREP Anna

 

castle: a — the “swallow’s tail”, b — “a thorn”.

Fig. 9. Sealing the cracks in the door panel door panel from Rainey:

 

1 — panel, 2 — rail

 

Fig. 10. Repaired the door:

 

1 replacement of damaged areas and obvjazki box door, 2 — reach: Aya задел1 cracks in the panels.

 

Fig. 11. Repair door angle trim-

 

1 — bar door, 2 — pin connection, 3 — Nagel. 4 — insert the bar.

 

Fig. 12. The strengthening corner joints of door trim:

 

1 — bruski obvjazki, 2 — steel bracket, 3 — screw

 

Fig. 13. Shipovoe connection casting, plane with nonnoi frame:

 

1 — nisni bar frame, 2 tide, 3 — tide in Assembly with the frame.

 

 

to the wall. To make up the gap, under both the vertical bar is inserted wooden slats. More practical to prepare cement or plaster solution to cover up the gap: after it goes out of the house and warm.

 

Fig. 6. The reinforcing insert (a) under the screws of a loop box (b)

 

Then you have to drill into the walls through the bars with a drill (extended drill with pobeditovym a tip) holes d 8-10 mm deep in concrete of not less than 30 mm. Here are driven steel rods (pins), the ends of which should be recessed into the box beams.

 

REPAIR DOORS. Often the door starts to act up — barely opens and closes. If the cause is swollen from the damp wood, the canvas will have to be removed and podstrogat high areas (easily identified by the abrasion of paint). But can be to blame and loops: if their attachment is weakened, it is wiser to replace the screws fixing the hinge on the longer or thicker — in the latter case, it is necessary to drill out the holes in the hinges and razzenkovku them.

 

 

Is possible to do so. Against the screws on the side of the box drill a cross hole with a diameter of 10 to 13 mm depending on the thickness of the box they have to drive (preferably with pre-greasing glue) wooden pins or dowels. Screws with sharp thread engages with transverse layers of wood tightly.

 

If the area selected under the hinge, cracked or splintered, damaged area is removed with a chisel and formed in the recess tight to drive a piece of fresh dry wood. An insert is performed on the glue, it is additionally fastened with screws, shifting them relative to the holes in the cards loop. The length of the inserted bars should not be less than two lengths of the loop. Front side adjust flush with the surface of the sidewall of the box.

 

 

Fixing screws in wood by means of wooden wedges, metal sawdust, shavings with glue, and the like ineffective.

 

If the door has settled and scratches on the floor, you have opened the door to knock out the wedge on the rod between cards formed a gap of about 10 mm. Then insert the wire 2-3 mm thick, round its stem, excess ends of the biting, and the resulting washer cover grease. This should be done with both loops.

 

 

If the repair was shot trim, when installed in place of the arisen cracks obscure the pure plaster test or putty. If the screws are not holding pens, for them too it is necessary to drill transverse holes and put wooden pins.

 

If you frequently change the locks bar door in this place is weakened. If it is not possible to replace the saw out of fresh dry wood insert. It should be twice as long as the sealed space with the ends of “mustache”. The workpiece is put to the door block, lead round a pencil the worn part and cut out by “dovetail”. The insert is fixed on glue with additional fastening by screws or round wooden pegs. After drying, the adhesive surface prostrugivajut clean and stripped.

 

And what to do if rotted the bottom of the door leaf! Removing the door from its hinges, cut out the worn part. Strictly cut the groove adjust the bar, then put it on glue with additional fastening by screws and wooden pegs. After that, install the baseboard of the door, preventing the lower bar from damage.

 

 

If cracked and cracked panels, their cracks clear of dirt and dust pickup from the top and bottom removed, produce a rake of appropriate thickness and shape and put on glue.

 

Inserted in the grooves of the panels are not removed without disassembly of the door. To drape a (decorate) the gap, produce a composite insert, the joints are cut “on a mustache”. First glued one half, then the second.

 

The decayed or broken part of door trim bars repaired so that they were attached to the healthy part of the wood a direct thorn. If you break down the bars of the porch, “knackered” part sostragivajut or cut down and replaced by a bar of suitable size. The parts are fastened together with glue and pins.

 

It happens that on the rail in the area of the latch vtsepilas tree in. The damaged area level, produce a paste and after gluing pristragivajut her, and sometimes additional fastened with nails.

 

If the door fell apart and warp — as often happens with old framed panels, they need to be removed, and the gusset a second time to put on the glue, and adjusted everything on the square. A bundle is useful to strengthen the large steel squares, superimposed on the corners of one or both sides of the door.

 

A. SHEPELEV